P.metallica new purchase and worried!

[Vinny2915]

For future reference to know 100% if in pre molt or not (close to molt not just entered premolt) get a flashlight, the stronger the better, wait until it is on the side of the glass (right up against) and shine from underneath it whilst looking form above it. If not in pre molt the legs will be see through, if in heavy pre molt the legs will be almost completely black in most parts. This has worked up until the specimen is around 4.5". At this size I find the legs are a bit too thick to tell with accuracy because it isn't see through qne not in pre molt anymore. That aside, your specimen Seems fine, I wouldn't worry too much. As for temps I keep my males (P.metallica included) slightly below 18C and they are completely fine, so ifit is 18 yours should be okay, it just won't be very active and probably won't eat very often due to a slower metabolism.

 

[Jason D]

I think the reason most people are skepticle of the divided tank is that as long as the T’s can see each other they’ll probably try to fight at some point. I’ve never done the divided enclosure but obviously have put thought into it. From what I’ve looked into only a few have ever done it with success but never seen a setup like you did with the exoterra. Except the first link where a guy did terrestrial and arboreal like you last year I messaged him for updates and issues with it I’ll let you know what he says.

Thanks. The thing with His, is he has 1 lid for the pair of them, so when he opens It, there's a chance 1 can bolt into the others enclosure. Also I don't know how well he's cut the divider in, but in the 1st shot looks like a fairly big gap. With mine I have the strips for doors and seperate lids to latch on to. There are no gaps in mine bigger than where the hinged side of the door shuts against the side, so if a t gets out it'll be in the house, not the other side also as mentioned before, people house t's in clear enclosures next to eachother with no issue.

Also while I stated before I try never to use a heat pad , living in an older fuel heated home and with the cold spells we’ve had in winters I have had to use them for extreme temperature drops in a pinch but only ever under half of the tank for terrestrials and on tank side or backing for my arboreal and only as a temporary solution placing them all the way under on terrestrials will drive them out and sometimes up to get away from warmth or can cause mold depending on sub and moisture etc. etc. but as long as your house has other people in it to consider as mine does ie a wife or kids space heater may not be doable lol. Look forward to hearing good or bad how it all works out bud.

Im going to stick the heat pad on the side or on the back. I'm not too sure yet. If it's on the back, it'll Catch each half and heat them both. If on the side it'll be on the pokie side to keep that half warmer. That's what I'm leaning towards at the moment.

For future reference to know 100% if in pre molt or not (close to molt not just entered premolt) get a flashlight, the stronger the better, wait until it is on the side of the glass (right up against) and shine from underneath it whilst looking form above it. If not in pre molt the legs will be see through, if in heavy pre molt the legs will be almost completely black in most parts. This has worked up until the specimen is around 4.5". At this size I find the legs are a bit too thick to tell with accuracy because it isn't see through qne not in pre molt anymore. That aside, your specimen Seems fine, I wouldn't worry too much. As for temps I keep my males (P.metallica included) slightly below 18C and they are completely fine, so ifit is 18 yours should be okay, it just won't be very active and probably won't eat very often due to a slower metabolism.

Thanks for the advice it's disappeared behind it's bush today, hopefuly it will make an appearance and go into it's tube soon. I'm going to put a head pad on It, as I've said above. Try to keep it around 22-24 I guess. I would rather it be a bit more active and eat more.

 

[cold blood]

I've read posts on t's getting into the other sides of their split enclosures, and I feel the job I've done dividing is good enough to keep them apart

If I had a dollar for every time I've heard this...lol.

Literally everyone who does split enclosures thinks this...everyone...yet deaths keep piling up and success rates remain low.

 

[Liquifin]

Split enclosures are not

So the t's only break dividers, and never break out if acrylic enclosures themselves? Plenty of enclosures are made of acrylic and I've never heard of a t breaking out of one.

I've read posts on t's getting into the other sides of their split enclosures, and I feel the job I've done dividing is good enough to keep them apart. I may be wrong, but only time will tell

Split enclosures always end up with only 1 tarantula in the end. But the questions is that, "is it possible for a split enclosure to work?" Right now I am personally testing for a better way for a split enclosure. But I personally think any slide-on-top or slide-door is too risky, because any T. strong enough can move the acrylic top if they wanted to (especially larger T.'s). An example is how strong my A. seemanni is, its like he lifts weights in the gym. But I have yet to find a good way for a split enclosure. While i'm still trying to find the ultimate prevention for split enclosures and 1 T. in the end, I still have yet to find a 100% safe split enclosure idea. Right now I personally think if you do a split enclosure, it better have a lock on it (my idea for now).