New Owner, Need Help! Unhappy Scorpion ):

Alex99

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I Just bought my Emperor Scorpion 2 days ago (had my first won when I was 12 and put him in a sand bio not knowing what I was doing) (thanks petco). I have some questions because my scorpion seems unhappy/uncomfortable, he spends his days sleeping like he should, and then almost all of the night propt up in the corner where I have his lamp. Like where is body is laying on the glass with his pinchers up towards the ceiling. If he isn't there he's in the opposite corner where there is no heat trying to escape, his warm side hovers around 83-85 degrees F with a 40watt IR bulb that produces red light. I haven't seen him eat or drink at all, and now that I look there is a little bit of something green in his mouth. I spray his tank around 6 times a day and try to make sure his floor stays damn/wet and yet he's still not happy/uncomfortable. And I use a half log as his hide and that seems to be the only thing he's happy with. Maybe I'm overthinking.. but I just want to make sure he's happy and give him everything he needs, I can post pictures if needed.
 

Jonathan159

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New scorpions take about a week to settle into a new environment so to not see them feed for a week is normal. Seeing a scorpion drink is also quite a rare sight so don't panic about that either. Misting your tank 6 times a day is far too much in my opinion. While it' true that your scorpion likes around 80% humidity, there are far better ways to preserve humidity for longer periods of time. You may want to try a great set-up that @skinheaddave has posted under the scorpion forum. This will help to no end keeping up humidity for longer periods of time. Another way to preserve humidity is to reduce air flow to the tank by covering vent holes as some tanks are just not suitable for sustaining high humidity due to too much high air flow along with the heat needed which will just evaporate the water faster. Also about the "green". These scorpions tend to look green under UV light and it can seem like something is wrong but don' worry about it. I've seen imperators look like they've been dropped in a swamp by the colour of them but it' just the UV light from the sun or other source.
 
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Alex99

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May 15, 2018
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New scorpions take about a week to settle into a new environment so to not see them feed for a week is normal. Seeing a scorpion drink is also quite a rare sight so don't panic about that either. Misting your tank 6 times a day is far too much in my opinion. While it' true that your scorpion likes around 80% humidity, there are far better ways to preserve humidity for longer periods of time. You may want to try a great set-up that @skinheaddave has posted under the scorpion forum. This will help to no end keeping up humidity for longer periods of time. Another way to preserve humidity is to reduce air flow to the tank by covering vent holes as some tanks are just not suitable for sustaining high humidity due to too much high air flow along with the heat needed which will just evaporate the water faster. Also about the "green". These scorpions tend to look green under UV light and it can seem like something is wrong but don' worry about it. I've seen imperators look like they've been dropped in a swamp by the colour of them but it' just the UV light from the sun or other source.
Thanks for the input it's assuring to know it will take some time for him to settle. I do notice that there are No more krickets roaming around and I don't see any corpses so I'm going to assume they have been eaten. Is it okay for me to have the lamp on 24/7 as well? It's only 40 watts and the other side of his tank is about 73F degrees while that side sits at 83-86F. I don't want to mess around with heat pads a little to complex for my liking. And does that supstrate look suitable for him? The shop I bought this at was borderline clueless and gave me pretty much no correct info. Sorry for all the back to back questions :)
 

Jonathan159

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That heat gradient sounds fine. Most substrates are fine if kept moist. I've kept them comfortably on things that range from coco fibre and soil mixes to peat moss, sedge peat, eco Earth. Though they seem to prefer the soils and they hold the moisture alot better which is a bonus for the owner. Also you' be correct to assume those crickets turned into lunch if your tank has no escape for them =)
 

Alex99

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That heat gradient sounds fine. Most substrates are fine if kept moist. I've kept them comfortably on things that range from coco fibre and soil mixes to peat moss, sedge peat, eco Earth. Though they seem to prefer the soils and they hold the moisture alot better which is a bonus for the owner. Also you' be correct to assume those crickets turned into lunch if your tank has no escape for them =)
Haha alright man seems like I've been overthinking :) thanks for the information and I'll be looking to move him to a coco fiber come next pay day. hopefully he doesnt mind the change-up after just getting settled :) thanks for all the information it sure put my mind to ease.
 

Alex99

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That heat gradient sounds fine. Most substrates are fine if kept moist. I've kept them comfortably on things that range from coco fibre and soil mixes to peat moss, sedge peat, eco Earth. Though they seem to prefer the soils and they hold the moisture alot better which is a bonus for the owner. Also you' be correct to assume those crickets turned into lunch if your tank has no escape for them =)
Last question, could my scorpion be unhappy with the lack of a second hide and only around 2-3 inches of substrate to borrow under?
 

Alex99

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Haha alright man seems like I've been overthinking :) thanks for the information and I'll be looking to move him to a coco fiber come next pay day. hopefully he doesnt mind the change-up after just getting settled :) thanks for all the information it sure put my mind to ease.
 

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Jonathan159

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It's always good practice to provide multiple hides for scorpions. One at the warm end and one at the cooler end of the tank, giving the scorpion the option to move from warm to cooler and still feel comfortable in a hide. Though I would advise when you get the new substrate to put about twice as much in compared to what is in there now. P. Imperators do burrow and giving it that option to do so is a right move.
 

Jonathan159

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By the way. There's no such thing as too many questions or a dumb one. We all learn by asking and it's nice to see new owners seeking information on how to properly care for their new scorpions etc. Ask away!:happy:
 

Alex99

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It's always good practice to provide multiple hides for scorpions. One at the warm end and one at the cooler end of the tank, giving the scorpion the option to move from warm to cooler and still feel comfortable in a hide. Though I would advise when you get the new substrate to put about twice as much in compared to what is in there now. P. Imperators do burrow and giving it that option to do so is a right move.
okay will be adding a second hide today, possibly adding more sub today as well. Off a quick glance this is a P. Imperator right? I paid 99 usd and want to make sure I didn't get scammed
 

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Alex99

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By the way. There's no such thing as too many questions or a dumb one. We all learn by asking and it's nice to see new owners seeking information on how to properly care for their new scorpions etc. Ask away!:happy:
And does that green stuff in his mouth appear normal?
 

Jonathan159

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It looks healthy from what I can see and if it is eating that's always a good sign that nothing is out of place.
 

Alex99

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It looks healthy from what I can see and if it is eating that's always a good sign that nothing is out of place.
Awesome, so I shouldn't be worried about the green in his mouth ? I'm assuming it's cricket guts at this point and I went ahead and plasti wrapped the top of his tank to help w humidity :)
 

Jonathan159

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It very well could be uneaten cricket. Your scorpion is definitely a Pandinus Imperator. Most commonly confused with an AFS (Asian forest scorpion). The easiest way to tell the difference between the two is the Imperator has far more grainy/textured chelea (pincers) and the Imperator will have ano amber coloured telson (stinger) where the AFS has much smoother chelea and a black telson. Luckily they both thrive on the same conditions so there's little to none problems caused when people get a mis-ID on an P.Imperator or an AFS.
 

darkness975

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@Alex99 you need to change that substrate asap. It needs several inches of moist coco fiber or soil or similar burrowing , moisture retaining substrate.

Don't chase humidity numbers. Keep the substrate moist through and it will be fine. Cover half the lid with saran wrap like mentioned before.

It's an adult. Offer food once a week or every other week and remove it if uneaten and try again in another week.

Wall dancing is normal, especially when they're not settled in yet.

No need to over think things. The simpler the better.
 
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