Need opinions on snake not eating/resp infection

Zeez

Arachnopeon
Joined
Jun 20, 2017
Messages
44
I work in a pet store and we received a milksnake. Very young. After not eating for 2 weeks, we put him in a tank on carpet in a quiet room (assuming stress). After a week in the quiet room, we attempted to feed again in the tank but no go. Waited one more week, still not eating. So he went to the vet Last Friday. Vet said it appeared to be a respiratory infection. There was nothing in the snakes poop (no worms or anything). So the vet gave us baytril to treat respiratory infection. The snake looks pretty bad (which makes me wonder if he was already not eating before we got him) so I'm wondering how much longer he can go without food. We attempted to feed again today, brained the pinkie and he wasn't interested. Is there anything that could be done to get something in him (besides force feeding)? Temps on the warm side are steady at 87 degrees, humidity at 50%-60%. He is also currently on paper towels that get changed every day as per vet instructions.
 

Johnny Q

Arachnopeon
Joined
Aug 7, 2012
Messages
38
The fact that he pooped is a good sign. It means it hasn't been too long since it last ate. I would be more concerned with whether or not it is drinking. Have you tried feeding it live food? And is it Lampropeltis triangulum?
 

Zeez

Arachnopeon
Joined
Jun 20, 2017
Messages
44
The fact that he pooped is a good sign. It means it hasn't been too long since it last ate. I would be more concerned with whether or not it is drinking. Have you tried feeding it live food? And is it Lampropeltis triangulum?
Well, his poop is like a green discharge. The vet also reccomended a 20 minute warm soak once a day so I assume he gets some water that way, but do you think we should try to give it water via syringe? And as far as his species, he came in labeled as Pueblan apricot Milk snake. Like I said, he is a pet store snake, so I'm not sure about the scientific name.

Also, being a pet store snake, policy is f/t so we don't keep live in store. When we attempt to feed, he goes away from the pinkie as if he's scared of it.

I am really worried. The poor thing is so limp when we give him his baytril. Someone mentioned he might not have the muscle strength to push the pinkie down. Would that be a possibility?
 

Johnny Q

Arachnopeon
Joined
Aug 7, 2012
Messages
38
does the green discharge have a pungent odor and happen when he is handled? It may just be his defense mechanism.
Is it strong enough to move from one side of the tank to the other?
 

Camman1983

Arachnosquire
Joined
Jul 11, 2017
Messages
51
Force feeding might be your only option in terms of keeping its strength up. I was often given baby snakes (from breeders) that refused to eat to save them a trip to the freezer. I was able to save all of them by force feeding. Some only need to force fed once or twice then they will start eating on their own. I had one painful individual that had to be force fed for nearly a year before it started eating on its own.
I have however lost snakes to respiratory infections.
How bad is the respiratory infection can you see a cheesy build up in its mouth or can you see bubbles forming on its nostrils?
 

Zeez

Arachnopeon
Joined
Jun 20, 2017
Messages
44
does the green discharge have a pungent odor and happen when he is handled? It may just be his defense mechanism.
Is it strong enough to move from one side of the tank to the other?
He doesn't really move much, but he has enough strength to try to get away when we offer him food or when we have to give him his medicine. There wasn't an odor coming from the poop and it was on his paper towels a couple days ago. He doesn't poop or pee on us when being handled (unlike a super grumpy albino king that we have, but that's another story).

Force feeding might be your only option in terms of keeping its strength up. I was often given baby snakes (from breeders) that refused to eat to save them a trip to the freezer. I was able to save all of them by force feeding. Some only need to force fed once or twice then they will start eating on their own. I had one painful individual that had to be force fed for nearly a year before it started eating on its own.
I have however lost snakes to respiratory infections.
How bad is the respiratory infection can you see a cheesy build up in its mouth or can you see bubbles forming on its nostrils?
We have tried force feeding. A couple of times, it seems like it is going to be successful, but he always pushes it back up. The vet said he saw mucus in his mouth which led him to the RI diagnosis. However, nose is clear. No bubbles or drainage. I haven't seen any "cheesy" build up when giving him meds.
 

Camman1983

Arachnosquire
Joined
Jul 11, 2017
Messages
51
When I used to force feed I would use one of those skinny drinking straws to poke the pinky all the way down (if it doesn't go all the way down it will come back up) then hold my thumb in front of the pinky so it can't come back up. Then it's just a battle of wills you might have to keep your thumb in place a minute or two. A large rat tail is easier to get down but has nearly no nutritional value but better then nothing. (It is a frustrating and I'm sure unpleasant experience for the snake but In my opinion worth it if it's starving itself to death)
 

Zeez

Arachnopeon
Joined
Jun 20, 2017
Messages
44
When I used to force feed I would use one of those skinny drinking straws to poke the pinky all the way down (if it doesn't go all the way down it will come back up) then hold my thumb in front of the pinky so it can't come back up. Then it's just a battle of wills you might have to keep your thumb in place a minute or two. A large rat tail is easier to get down but has nearly no nutritional value but better then nothing. (It is a frustrating and I'm sure unpleasant experience for the snake but In my opinion worth it if it's starving itself to death)
Hm. The rat tail idea is really good. I'm sure we could try that this weekend. Do you have any pictures of videos of what I'll call "the straw method" that you're describing? I think I can visualize what you're saying, but would like to be sure.

And admittedly, we do start to doubt ourselves when force feeding because we know the snake is stressed and angry. Especially since we have to force him to take medicine before we force feed. That being said, we don't struggle with him for very long and maybe that's the problem.
 

Camman1983

Arachnosquire
Joined
Jul 11, 2017
Messages
51
Basically you open the mouth shove the pinky in and keep poking it further and further down with the straw.
Rats tails are easier because they are tapered but don't give the snake a lot. depending on the size of the snake getting a pinky in can be like stuffing a sleeping bag into its sack and sometimes the pinky burst which is disgusting but won't worry the snake.
Once it's past the head and into the throats it's easier to push it down further with the straw, gentle but firm is the trick. Sometimes they will start swallowing once it's halfway down but holding your thumb in front of the bulge will stop it regurgitating. Then it's just a matter of holding it in till the snake accepts it and stops trying to regurgitate. It was tricky to get a feel for it first but I did have 100% success with dozens of hatchlings that refused to eat.
Not sure if you tried a pinky pump yet (they were crap back when I was right into snakes) but might be worth looking into.
 
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