My sons Arizona Blond

Codename Colorado

Arachnosquire
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Jan 4, 2019
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Hey guys, take a look at this set up for my sons Arizona blond and let me know what you think. It went to its hide after about 2 weeks of hugging the glass under the leaves. While we were on vacation the girl taking care of our animals sent us a couple pictures of it at its water dish so it appears to be getting comfy. The only problem we were having is that it wouldnt eat. Last night we found it flipped over in its hide, so Im assuming its going into molt. That would explain not eating right?

The other question I have, is how soon after molt should we try to feed it?

Thanks guys, and sorry for the long a$$ post!
 

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Arachnanoob95

Arachnopeon
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Jun 26, 2019
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Hey guys, take a look at this set up for my sons Arizona blond and let me know what you think. It went to its hide after about 2 weeks of hugging the glass under the leaves. While we were on vacation the girl taking care of our animals sent us a couple pictures of it at its water dish so it appears to be getting comfy. The only problem we were having is that it wouldnt eat. Last night we found it flipped over in its hide, so Im assuming its going into molt. That would explain not eating right?

The other question I have, is how soon after molt should we try to feed it?

Thanks guys, and sorry for the long a$$ post!
1. The enclosure looks nice but the amount of substrate seems insufficient. Not all tarantulas burrow, your chalcodes might not, but you still want to give them the chance too. They need several inches of substrate to give them room to burrow, if they choose to.
2. Not eating and flipping upside down are indeed signs of premoult/moult.
3. For adult tarantulas it is best to wait at least 1-2 weeks after a moult before you feed. Their fangs need to harden.
 

Codename Colorado

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Jan 4, 2019
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1. The enclosure looks nice but the amount of substrate seems insufficient. Not all tarantulas burrow, your chalcodes might not, but you still want to give them the chance too. They need several inches of substrate to give them room to burrow, if they choose to.
2. Not eating and flipping upside down are indeed signs of premoult/moult.
3. For adult tarantulas it is best to wait at least 1-2 weeks after a moult before you feed. Their fangs need to harden.
Solid. thanks for the advice!
 

cold blood

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Yeah, its not really appropriate due to the excessive height.

1. Add more sub....if you are gonna use that tank, its going to need to be over halfway filled with sub..

2. The elevated plant needs to go...we need to discourage terrestrials from climbing.

3. The hide should really be buried most of the way.


This species has low food requirements, some of the lowest of all species....not eating isnt ever an issue. Id feed just twice monthly...you can feed more, but it will just lead to long fasting periods...and by long, we are talking a year or two.

After molting wait a good 2 weeks for it to harden up before offering food.
 

cold blood

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Thanks guys, I appreciate it. Does that substrate seem ok? Its coconut and peat mixed together.
Any of the acceptable substrates are just fine, as are any combination of them.

Coco fiber is the hobby staple, peat is also fine (although not environmentally sustainable) as is top soil....your sub would be fine for any species you get.
 

BenWilly

Tarantula Hillbilly
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Sep 16, 2018
Messages
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The substrate does need to be finer, the chips dont let it burrow if it wants. I use the ground up coco coir mixed with peat moss
 

mack1855

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820
Fish tanks are for fish.And not criticizing you on the choice of enclosures.
But unless you join AB before your first T,you don't know this.
Couple of pics,how complicated A.chalcodes setup will be.
 

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Teal

Arachnoemperor
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Jan 11, 2009
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4,096
Fish tanks are for fish.
And anything else you want to keep in them :rolleyes:

I have lots of Ts in glass tanks. I have rodents in glass tanks. I have snakes in glass tanks.

Glass tanks aren't the issue. It's what is or is not put inside them.
 

mack1855

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Glass tanks aren't the issue.
Difficult to drill for ventilation.
Larger size,generally,is wasted on T,s.
Heavy compared to plexiglass/sterilite enclosures.
Cost factor in general.
 

SonsofArachne

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This species has low food requirements, some of the lowest of all species....not eating isnt ever an issue. Id feed just twice monthly...you can feed more, but it will just lead to long fasting periods...and by long, we are talking a year or two.
I can attest to this. After a year and half fast, mine finally molted a couple of weeks ago and finally ate last week. I was beginning to think it would never eat again :rolleyes:
 

Teal

Arachnoemperor
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Difficult to drill for ventilation.
Larger size,generally,is wasted on T,s.
Heavy compared to plexiglass/sterilite enclosures.
Cost factor in general.
There is no reason to drill holes in them.

10g short tanks, 5g, and 2.5g are all perfect for Ts... I also have a few in normal 10g with a ton of sub.

What does it matter how heavy it is?

I can find glass tanks for free on somewhere like Craigslist all day long.

It's fine if YOU don't want to use them, but don't try to tell someone THEY cannot use them.
 

mack1855

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@Codename Colorado ,you obviously can use any enclosure you and your son want to.
Just pointed out some alternatives.More importantly,hows the T doing?.Did it molt ok?.
 

Codename Colorado

Arachnosquire
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Jan 4, 2019
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60
So it molted just fine, but now the molt seems like its stuck to its abdomen. Its doing a lot of moving around in its enclosure. Almost like its trying to get it to peel off the rest of the way. Thought?
 
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