Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Tarantula Questions & Discussions' started by Katielou89, Aug 15, 2017.
A noob question. What is DLS?
Diagonal leg span - front left leg to right rear leg.
Thanks. I did not know.
You're welcome, in no time at all you'll get used to all the terms, here are some to get you started:
MM - Mature Male
MF - Mature female
sp. - species
1.2.3 - 1 male tarantula, 2 female tarantulas, 3 unsexed tarantulas.
You'll find some other terms that may confuse you, if in doubt just ask, the only silly question is the one that is not asked.
Thanks. I definitely do not hesitate to ask questions. Haha. When I first got interested in Ts ... which was a long time ago although I only got my first one recently, I was only familiar with the common names of the Ts. Now, I am more familiar with their real (scientific) names. But my familiarity is limited to the NW T's only and only the popular ones.
Which are your favourites? - scientific names remember - LOL
I have grammostola pulchripes (female juvi - my first one) and a female aphonopelma seemani. I am looking to get a brachypelma hamorii too.
My other favorites are grammostola pulchra, b emilia, g rosea and e campestratus ... sorry if I misspelled some.
And I need to apologize to the OP for apparently hijacking this thread.
The enclosure looks massive for such a small T. This will lead to your spider hiding a lot more. Tarantulas don't feel secure in large open spaces...
Way too much height as well, if she falls from the top it could be fatal. I would rehouse her into something much smaller.
Or the other way around, as long as it's measured diagonally.
There's still far too much height. Rehouse her...the setup should look something like this.
No need for apologies, it happens all the time - You'll have to have a look at G. iheringi, stunning Grammostola. See the way I typed the name that's how it should be written, I'm not nit picking I'm just letting you know.
You don't need to write the genus in full, just the species and the species should be in italics. Nice choices by the way, especially G. pulchra, BBB - haha, Big Black Beauty as @basin79 likes to call his, lastly welcome to AB - you'll enjoy this forum.
Nope. My BBB is:
My bad, who calls there's that then I remember your BBB, I must be mistaken -
Beautiful Black Bulldozer - Big Black Beauty? mmm? Oh well, I still love the acronym!
Hi again! Can anyone guess how big /age my red knee is please? And also how often I should expect a molt, she's refused food twice now just pretty much running away from it :/ thank u
What are you using as feeders and how often are you offering?
I'm offering her food eveey other day leave it in there for a bit and then take it out as she seems to be more unsettled if I leave it there. I'm using something from the pet shop ' 3Rd hoppers?' but it's been 6 weeks now :/
Also she stays in her coconut all the time never comes out
Way too often...ts do not have high metabolisms...well Brachys don't (some do but you still wouldn't feed nearly that often). Offer food once a week....crickets are a staple, but mealworms, superworms and even wax worms are great feeders to try.
Google sucks for T info unless it directs you here.
No, the substrate you use will be your personal preference....just make sure its at the right levels.
You couldn't pay me to put that "hide" in a terrestrial enclosure. The object of t safety is to discourage terrestrials from climbing, things like that giant coconut merely encourage climbing...in fact, with proper sub depth, there would be no room for that giant thing any way.
OP, keep in mind that smaller, tighter hides are preferred....big open ones are useless. Look at it this way, theyre the opposite of humans, we may be comfortable walking into a church, but uncomfortable crawling under a bed....a t would still find the under the bed scenario as too roomy. Entrances should be just big enough for the t to get into and there shouldn't be an open cavity within it...in fact a good hide should be buried and not have a bottom so the t can excavate and burrow.
The example darkness provided illustrates this perfectly. You can see that the hide is buried, so now even if a t falls on it, it won't be falling directly on the hard hide but rather the substrate over it. IMO the best hides just look like holes in the ground....these examples all have large wood pieces as the structure, but its barely visible.
Age is meaningless, its DLS that tells the story and dictates its care. 10 people could raise 10 of them and after 3 years, several could still have slings, some could have juvies and still a few others could have adults in the same time period. Personal husbandry dictates growth rates as much as anything. Without knowing the breeder, you won't ever know its age, you can only guess....my guess would be between 2 and 5 years old.
Smaller ts in over-size enclosures (like you have) will hide a lot more...sometimes obsessively.
A lot of good info here. I’m still green in this hobby, but this is a strong community with helpful folks.
I don’t think it’s been said yet (though I’m sure we’re all thinking it), but that’s an adorable little T you’ve got there.
When I first started collecting I tried a few different types of feeders - superworms, lateralis, dubia, crickets. Some Ts prefer certain types of food more than others. For instance, my two avics will only eat crickets. The stirmi will eat anything.
As others have said, your T is probably just fasting. For grins, I would at least offer a different type of prey. You never know...
I personally don’t leave any live feeder in the enclosure unsupervised. If the Ts don’t take it within a few minutes I remove it. I’m probably being over cautious, but Ts have been known to be gravely injured by prey, even if it’s properly sized.
Must admit Google is and so is pet shops, this site has been amazingly helpful It might be just sorting her enclosure out a bit, make her feel more secure and offer her a different type of food, as I said it's been 6 weeks now :/ shes molted once in mid July