In over my head for a noob beardy owner?

SpooderLady008

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Sooo, today I went to Petco intending to buy crickets for my girls and ran into an adoption event. I ended up coming home with more than just crickets however. I adopted this guy, a skinny, neglected little beardy named Blaze. He has issues with his legs due to improper care, but I talked to a lady at the event who said she took him/her and it's companions to the vet and the vet said they would recover given proper care and physical therapy (soaks and getting him to swim). So I caved and brought the little fella/guy home. I've always wanted a beardy. He loves dubia roaches and has a big appetite from what I saw at the store. I bought him two hides, one that doubles as a bowl, a hide and a basking spot. Bought him some calcium powder for his feeders. He seems to have perked up alot now that he's warm. Is there anything else I should do? IMG_20190216_144538918_HDR.jpg IMG_20190216_144247487_BURST001.jpg
 
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l4nsky

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UVB light and calcium supplement without D3. Odds are the leg problems were due to insufficient calcium uptake due to lack of UV exposure (UVB exposure helps create vitamin D3 which is essential for proper calcium absorption in the bones. Give him calcium and the UVB light to make all the D3 he needs) and this will go a long way in helping. I'd place the water bowl at the cool end as well. Beardies don't need the high humidity that the water under the hotspot will produce (plus you'll have to constantly refill it from evaporation). Also, look into building a Rete's stack. It's basically a multi layered wooden structure you place under the hotspot. It'll allow him to choose what temperature is best for him (they like access to a 100 degree baking spot, but need to be able to retreat to about 80 degrees on the cool side of the enclosure) as the different layers are different temperatures and doubles as a hide on the warm side of the enclosure. Also try to vary the diet up. They are more insectivorous while younger, but become more omnivorous with age.

I dont think you're out of your depth here, Beardies are great beginner lizards with a lot of personality. You'll have a decent road to recovery for him, but it's entirely doable with the proper husbandry. Just do your research and ask questions.

Thanks,
--Matt
 

SpooderLady008

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UVB light and calcium supplement without D3. Odds are the leg problems were due to insufficient calcium uptake due to lack of UV exposure (UVB exposure helps create vitamin D3 which is essential for proper calcium absorption in the bones. Give him calcium and the UVB light to make all the D3 he needs) and this will go a long way in helping. I'd place the water bowl at the cool end as well. Beardies don't need the high humidity that the water under the hotspot will produce (plus you'll have to constantly refill it from evaporation). Also, look into building a Rete's stack. It's basically a multi layered wooden structure you place under the hotspot. It'll allow him to choose what temperature is best for him (they like access to a 100 degree baking spot, but need to be able to retreat to about 80 degrees on the cool side of the enclosure) as the different layers are different temperatures and doubles as a hide on the warm side of the enclosure. Also try to vary the diet up. They are more insectivorous while younger, but become more omnivorous with age.

I dont think you're out of your depth here, Beardies are great beginner lizards with a lot of personality. You'll have a decent road to recovery for him, but it's entirely doable with the proper husbandry. Just do your research and ask questions.

Thanks,
--Matt
Thank you for all the advice. I'll definitely keep updating on his condition and look into getting what you suggested.
 

l4nsky

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It can, but unless you leave him outside, the exposure will be like a drop of water in a lake compared to the constant exposure of a UVB bulb. Plus, a lot of reptiles will kind of freak out when you bring them outside. My Blue tongue skink is a sweet heart, but becomes flighty and nervous when he goes outside.
 

SpooderLady008

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It can, but unless you leave him outside, the exposure will be like a drop of water in a lake compared to the constant exposure of a UVB bulb. Plus, a lot of reptiles will kind of freak out when you bring them outside. My Blue tongue skink is a sweet heart, but becomes flighty and nervous when he goes outside.
I see. I forget what kind of lamp I got but I don't know if it's a UVB. I'll check when I get home. I'll probably have to take it back and swap it out....
 

l4nsky

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I see. I forget what kind of lamp I got but I don't know if it's a UVB. I'll check when I get home. I'll probably have to take it back and swap it out....
It would be better to just get a fluorescent UVB light in addition to the hotspot, that way he has exposure even on the cool side of the tank.

Thanks,
--Matt
 

SpooderLady008

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So the lamp I got is a Zilla Light and Heat Halogen Mini Dome.

I bought him some blueberries to try. He wasn't too keen on them, I practically had to stuff a small piece in his mouth but he ate it. He was fed up before I brought him home so maybe he's just not hungry? How often should I offer food?
 

SpooderLady008

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I had some one else tell me his condition may be too far gone to help him cause I mentioned he has trouble climbing and he easily slips. Since he can't seem to get his back legs to cooperate he can't right himself. He's like a turtle. :/
 
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SpooderLady008

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I researched that people tend to avoid the UVB bulbs a go for the UVB tubes instead. Is that true?
 

l4nsky

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If he's eating, there's still hope for him. Might want to avoid the retes stack though, wouldn't want him falling off it. As for UVB, the fluorescent tubes are better in my opinion, over just a UVB hotspot. That way he gets more exposure even on the cool side.

Thanks,
--Matt
 

SpooderLady008

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Blazes new set up with a new UVB light. Offered him a salad of blueberries, spinach, strawberries with meal worms topped with multivitamin. He ate a few meal worms then hauled himself up under his heat lamp. He's already way more perky and alert than he was. IMG_20190217_154516350.jpg IMG_20190217_153934244.jpg IMG_20190217_153947955.jpg
 

SpooderLady008

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He's moving his back legs a little now. Not sure if that's a good sign considering there was no reaction in his legs before or if he's just having little tremors (which I read is a symptom of MBD.) I also notice his toes twitch a little randomly. He has strength in his front legs but his back end he sort of drags around. He pooped so I don't think he's impacted.
 

SpooderLady008

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Gave Blaze a bath in the sink. He seemed to enjoy it. He can't swim, he just kinda floats. Had to keep my hand under him so his head wouldn't go under. I gently massaged and flexed his back legs a little. Then I held him in my hand and let the water drip and pool in my hand and to my surprise he actually drank some. He also made a funny noise that startled me and I realized he had poo'd in the sink. XD
 

SpooderLady008

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So it turns out the basking spot is not nearly hot enough for the little guy. I was talking to a friend who has lizards who is going to help me get him a 100 watt heat lamp for a reasonable price. And a thermostat. My friend is taking me and Blaze to a pet store called the Serpentarium to get advice on him. He threw up meel worms this morning and was having a tough time pooping which is not a good sign.
 

SpooderLady008

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Got him a better lamp and the temp in his tank is up now. He's become way more mobile. The pet store associate recommended I feed him Beardie Buffet mix so I bought some of that and a thermometer. The associate examined him and said aside from the MBD in his hind end he seems fairly healthy. He may never regain full use of one of his back legs though as it appears to be locked in place, but the other one may eventually regain some strength. In other words he may always be physically handicapped.
 

Dandrobates

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I would strongly recommend a trip to a qualified exotics vet who routinely treats reptiles. Your little guy looks to be in a bad sort. An exam and a fecal are a wise idea. I’m thinking MBD here but bear in mind stress and parasites may compound that condition. As far as lighting and heat go get a ceramic heat bulb for the basking spot and maintain a basking spot near 110. Get a good thermostat (spyder electronics makes excellent ones) avoid Petco junk. As far as UV goes: UVB and UVA are both beneficial. UVB is used for D3 synthesis and UVA provides visible wavelengths that simulate natural sunlight. Zoomed makes excellent bulbs and some offer both wavelengths. Avoid Zilla always go zoomed. Avoid commercial diets as they are nutritionally poor. Dandelion greens, occasional kale and occasional blueberries are fine. Dust your feeder insects with repashy supercal every other feeding after gutloading them and that’s all you need. Good luck. Hope he improves
 

Dandrobates

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It can, but unless you leave him outside, the exposure will be like a drop of water in a lake compared to the constant exposure of a UVB bulb. Plus, a lot of reptiles will kind of freak out when you bring them outside. My Blue tongue skink is a sweet heart, but becomes flighty and nervous when he goes outside.

The reason most reptiles freak when outside in natural sunlight is because of the UVA present in sunlight that’s visible to them and not to humans. Most reptiles receive so little uva exposure in captivity that when the are introduced to it it’s overly stimulating.
 

SpooderLady008

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I have a Zilla Slimline Desert Fixture T8 18 inch 50 UVB and a 100 watt Intense Basking Spotlight bulb. Tank is now over 100 degree's on the warm side. I dust the feeders with Rep-Cal Multivitamin. I don't understand, what's wrong with Zilla? It seems like the Zoo Med and Zilla brands of UVB lights do the same thing? Also, I don't have the right kind of tank lid for a Zoo Med light.
 
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