Hottentotta jayakari Sexing/Breeding [PIC HEAVY]

Quixtar

Arachnobaron
Old Timer
Joined
Sep 22, 2007
Messages
513
In an effort to bring this species to the states, I'd like to dedicate this thread to all husbandry knowledge concerning Hottentotta jayakari.

Here are some pictures of my H. jayakari, sexed to the best of my knowledge (please correct me if I am wrong) based on both genital operculum shape and pectine tooth count:

Adult (7i) Female 1 (count: 34L / 34R) - outside:



Adult (6i) Male 1 (count: 38L / 38R) - outside:



Adult (7i) Female 2 (count: 36L / 35R) - hotbox:



Adult (6i) Male 2 (count: 38L / 37R) - hotbox:



Sub-Adult (6i) Female (count: 34L / 35R) - hotbox:



These Hottentotta jayakari were raised to maturity in separate enclosures from 4i in 6-8 months under the following conditions: 95-100F / 35-38C for 24 hours a day; little to no water provided; feeding a medium-sized cricket 1-2x per week. One female died during the molt to maturity. The last 6i female shown in the picture above has not yet molted and is 5 months late compared to her peers. However, she molted to 5i at roughly the same time as the others, and is currently being kept separate from the mature bunch.

Originally, there were 3 adult males. After reaching maturity, I attempted to keep the 2 adult females shown above with the 3 males all in the same enclosure, with plenty of space and hides and under the following conditions: 85-90F / 29-32C for 10 hours during the day and 73-75F / 23-24C at night; little to no water provided; feeding a medium to large-sized cricket 1x per week per scorpion. After 2 months in this arrangement, one of the males was cannibalized. I have since separated them into: one big enclosure containing one pair (Female 2, Male 2), and the second pair (Female 1, Male 1) separated and each kept in their own enclosures. The pair sharing the same enclosure are kept under previously mentioned conditions in my hotbox. The other separated pair are kept outside the hotbox at room temperature (~73F / 23C) They have been separated this way to observe mating behavior of the hotbox pair while slowing the aging process of the outside pair at a minimal loss from cannibalism.

I have a couple of questions to the European breeders and would like to hear some tips and suggestions for successfully breeding this species. In total I've lost a pair already, and with so few numbers here in the states, I would really like to do this right.

(i) What temperatures do you keep yours at, and would it be wise to switch to "growth" temperatures (35-38C) again?

(ii) Do you keep them communally like other Hottentotta sp. and have you observed them to be particularly tolerant of each other?

(iii) The gestation period is roughly 9 months, correct? What is the average brood size?

(iv) Anything else you can think of providing would be helpful.

Additionally, I'd like for anyone who has this species in the US to please either post a reply or send me a PM if you would prefer to remain discreet. My goal is to establish H. jayakari here and for those of us who have them to make contact in order to ensure that this goal is attained.

Chris
 
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Roblicious

Arachnodemon
Old Timer
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Mar 2, 2011
Messages
671
if you are hot boxing shouldnt you be feeding it more? I fed my LQ daily when I was hot boxing it.'

I think they are communal at adulthood, like most other hottentotta sp.
 

AzJohn

Arachnoking
Old Timer
Joined
Dec 25, 2007
Messages
2,181
Hello,

I've been breeding H judaicus for a few years. I know it's not the same species, but I imagine some things will be the same. Breeding females love it hot. My female spends the whole time near the hot (90 F) part of the tank, somtimes actually touching the side. Gestation period really depends on the amount of food and temperatures. I've seen gestaion periods from a 4-10 months. The 4 month gestation period was a bit of a fluke and it's only happened once. Your's look a little bit skinny. When breeding my females are really fat, may try feeding two large crickets a day. I also give them water about once a week. Temperment will depend on each individual scorpion to some extent. One of my females gets along great with every one, even have a brood before I could remove the male (the 4 month brood). The other female is larger and has killed a male once prior to having her brood. She also attacked the other female poking a whole in her, which was plugged with sand. I keep her with a male for a few months then by herself the rest of the time. She gets very agressive prior to birth.

I hope this helps a little bit and good luck.
 

Quixtar

Arachnobaron
Old Timer
Joined
Sep 22, 2007
Messages
513
if you are hot boxing shouldnt you be feeding it more? I fed my LQ daily when I was hot boxing it.'

I think they are communal at adulthood, like most other hottentotta sp.
I fed them more often at certain times when they were younger, perhaps up to 3-4x a week, though most of the time it's 1-2x.

Hello,

I've been breeding H judaicus for a few years. I know it's not the same species, but I imagine some things will be the same. Breeding females love it hot. My female spends the whole time near the hot (90 F) part of the tank, somtimes actually touching the side. Gestation period really depends on the amount of food and temperatures. I've seen gestaion periods from a 4-10 months. The 4 month gestation period was a bit of a fluke and it's only happened once. Your's look a little bit skinny. When breeding my females are really fat, may try feeding two large crickets a day. I also give them water about once a week. Temperment will depend on each individual scorpion to some extent. One of my females gets along great with every one, even have a brood before I could remove the male (the 4 month brood). The other female is larger and has killed a male once prior to having her brood. She also attacked the other female poking a whole in her, which was plugged with sand. I keep her with a male for a few months then by herself the rest of the time. She gets very agressive prior to birth.

I hope this helps a little bit and good luck.
I have 2 IR bulbs and a heat mat I've stuck to the side of the hotbox that helps create a gradient. One of the IR bulbs is 50W and brings the temperature to the 85-90F range while the 75W brings it to 95-100F. From what I've read of jayakari, they require temperatures that high for molting and growth, but I'm going to need input on breeding temperature before I switch back to 75W. I'll try feeding the hotbox pair more often, but note that Female 1 and Male 1 above are supposed to be skinny since they're kept outside the hotbox to slow down their growth.

Thanks
 

Michiel

Arachnoking
Old Timer
Joined
May 22, 2006
Messages
3,478
You should not keep scorpions under 38 Celsius 24 hours a day..Did you know the lethal temp for scorpions is around 45 Celsius???...this is totally not necessary and althought you where able to raise your scorpions, what if the temps are raised by warm weather and such??
you are keeping them way too hot.....

I am not a fan of hotboxes......in my opinion it is rediculous. A typical invention of contemporary people without patience to "speed up things".........but, this is only my opinion.....
 

BAM1082

Arachnoknight
Joined
Jun 10, 2010
Messages
257
The hotbox idea is intriguing.... with a simple temp. control unit you could bring it into the ideal range and night time temp. drop....

Im tired of heating an entire room!

Could you possibly post a few photos of yours?
 

Quixtar

Arachnobaron
Old Timer
Joined
Sep 22, 2007
Messages
513
It stays very cool in temperatures here on the Pacific coastline. At times the hotbox temperature dips below 35C, but never above 38C. I keep them at those temperatures with a timer now, for 10 hours a day. If I do not use a hotbox, I cannot easily attain the high temperatures needed. I've tried various configurations with heat lamps and pads and cannot raise the temperatures above 29C without some sort of heavily insulated container.

I'm aware that lethal temperatures are 45C, but where I live, this scenario is almost impossible. There were a couple H. jayakari that I kept prior to this group that would not molt even for a year if temperatures were under 29C. As soon as I introduced them to 35C+ conditions, molting became regular every few months. In my experience, this species requires incredibly high temperatures, more so than other desert scorpions I've bred in the past.

Here are some pictures of the hotbox setup:



 
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sfpearl300z

Arachnoknight
Old Timer
Joined
Jan 1, 2010
Messages
207
Such a beautiful species. Thank you for you efforts to introduce these to the US hobby! These have been my "holy grail" for an extremely long time.
 

gromgrom

Arachnoprince
Old Timer
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Nov 30, 2009
Messages
1,743
my buddy has these here in our city as well. truely gorgeous specimens. similar to P. liosoma, but both have their strong points.
 

the toe cutter

Arachnobaron
Old Timer
Joined
Mar 20, 2010
Messages
424
I sold a pair a few months ago because I needed some extra cash at the moment, but hopefully the individual who has them will breed them and send me some scorplings! I really enjoyed them, very easy to raise and really good temperment for hottnetotta. Nice pics
 
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