Hi all

Chris LXXIX

ArachnoGod
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Dec 25, 2014
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I got a little space heater for about 16-20 bucks on amazon so it's not like you need to get a huge expensive one either.
I never said that, i was only suggesting something for raise temperatures :)

On a side note: i don't know the price of those, nor their electric impact on the bill, because i've never used one. I always kept/keep my T's at room temperatures in Winter.
 

Ryuti

Arachnopeon
Joined
Mar 3, 2016
Messages
45
I never said that, i was only suggesting something for raise temperatures :)

On a side note: i don't know the price of those, nor their electric impact on the bill, because i've never used one. I always kept/keep my T's at room temperatures in Winter.
My room drops to about 15 C without a heater. I like to keep it at around 23-26 :)
 

Chris LXXIX

ArachnoGod
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Dec 25, 2014
Messages
5,845
My room drops to about 15 C without a heater. I like to keep it at around 23-26 :)
In Winter (in late Spring, like now, or go figure Summers here where i live, everything is off or at the minimum) i keep mines at Day, a range of 23-24°C and at Night, 20°C (Drop). I rely on the central heathing system only, and well insulated room.

Now we have, outside! 26°C and i'm here with the "full open window" mode :)
 

darkness975

Latrodectus
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Aug 31, 2012
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Why the gel? In the water dish? Use water alone, man.
I second this. Use straight clean water, no gel or cubes or any of that weird stuff they sell. Also, leave it alone for a week or so so it can harden up from molting.
I must say I am a bit surprised it is climbing so soon after molting, mine usually sit in place and stretch for a couple days before starting to move around.
 

lalberts9310

Arachnoprince
Joined
Oct 9, 2014
Messages
1,083
Remove the gel, tarantulas can't drink from gel, just give it plain water, it won't drown. No misting, B. vagans should be kept dry. Provide more substrate, the space between the lid and the substrtae should be no more than 1.5 the Ts DLS. Terrestrials can get injured seriously (sometimes fatal) when they climb the sides, slip and fall a great distance.

Good to hear you are not planning to handle either. Handling is discourage because it is stressful to the T, it serves no benefits for the T and you run the risk of getting bitten, having an escaped or injured T.

Also, no feeding until its new exo has hardened. Look at the fangs, they should be black before you attempt to feed it, if they are red or white the exo is still soft and you should wait before feeding. I also strongly suggest that you search these boards and educate yourself on the signs of pre-molt. Remember that tarantulas in pre-molt should not be fed live food (they won't eat anyway). If you suspect a molt feed it pre-killed, or just don't feed it at all. Tarantulas in pre-molt, and molting tarantulas are very vulnerable and unable to defend themselves. Live feeders can easily injure or even kill a molting tarantula.

Welcome to the hobby, great 1st choice and I do hope you enjoy it a ton :)
 
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draiko

Arachnosquire
Joined
May 23, 2016
Messages
65
Thats what the lady said and how she raised hers. But okay! I'll take it out.

Okay, but can i add the stuff when it starts moving around again? I havn't seen it since i got it. Its hiding in the little house i built for it and I'd prefer not to bug it. So I'd rather wait until its active.
 

Trenor

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Jan 28, 2016
Messages
1,896
Thats what the lady said and how she raised hers. But okay! I'll take it out.

Okay, but can i add the stuff when it starts moving around again? I havn't seen it since i got it. Its hiding in the little house i built for it and I'd prefer not to bug it. So I'd rather wait until its active.
Sure, I'd wait for her to exo to harden and her to start moving around before the rework. I'd change out the gel for water now though if it were me.
 

lalberts9310

Arachnoprince
Joined
Oct 9, 2014
Messages
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Change the waterdish now, tarantulas use a lot of fluid to molt, so a freshly molted tarantula is very prone to dehydration, so water must be provided in order for it to replenish the lost fluids.
 

EggMcMuffin

Arachnopeon
Joined
Mar 11, 2015
Messages
40
Thats what the lady said and how she raised hers. But okay! I'll take it out.

Okay, but can i add the stuff when it starts moving around again? I havn't seen it since i got it. Its hiding in the little house i built for it and I'd prefer not to bug it. So I'd rather wait until its active.
I wouldn't listen to a word that comes out of a pet store workers mouth. From my experience 100% of what comes out is pure crap. 90% of them have no idea what they are talking about. It is good you came here, and are trying to learn how to care for your T properly.
Welcome to the hobby, and the forum.;)
 

darkness975

Latrodectus
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Aug 31, 2012
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5,610
Thats what the lady said and how she raised hers. But okay! I'll take it out.
I think this speaks volumes for how hardy they are to survive. But as previously stated this is bad and they need fresh water.
 

cold blood

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jan 19, 2014
Messages
13,223
Hi all, completely new to this hobby and will be picking up a spider in the next two days. I just have a few questions,

the pet store has three species. for almost a third of the price other pet shops around here,

-Brachypelma vagans
-Grammostola pulchripes
-Scarlet bird eater


To me the Brachypelma vagans looks the nicest and if it was completely up to me I'd go with that one. But is it the hardiest and a good choice for a first timer as I do not want to make a fatal mistake and kill it.

Thank you.
Pulchripes would have been hands down the best choice IMO...just an all around great species.

Hardy is something you hear from people doing care sheet searches, which leads them to the belief that they need to search for that quality...truth is that the vast majority of ts are very hardy...I hate to see that as a main selling point.

I'm not really too big of a fan of the B. vagans, and I can already hear the riots starting now ;)
I just find them a bit boring in color and appearance compared to (what i would consider) a much cooler thrixopelma ockerti. They both have the same colors in the same places but the ockerti just looks way cooler imo
I just had a conversation with @Blue Jaye the other day about this...we both think that vagans is one of, if not the most under-rated beginner type species. They eat like beasts and look very very nice with that jet black color and red rump....we both agreed that we thought they were better looking than the "classic" black t, G. pulchra.

Vagans is a pretty skittish t and willing to show off their surprising speed...they can also be on the defensive side...but still a great t, even for a beginner. Bluejay thinks the reason people under-estimate them is because they've never actually seen an adult female in person (because they are indeed quite impressive)...I think its because they are sooooo easily available and unbelievably cheap....I personally had no interest for this reason and only got a couple because they were like $2 throw ins.....mistake...I really love my sub-adult female....she's a trash compactor.

T. okerti though, that spider is on a whole different level when it comes to skittish....T. cyaneolum is a far better choice for beginners.

Thanks trenor. What do you mean by letting the substrate dry out?
Its a sling, it should be on partially moist substrate...and all my Lasiodoras have shown a distinct fondness for the damp over the dry.

It could be just the way it looks on the photo or the type of substrate but it looks damp to me. If it is, I would not add any water to the substrate and let it dry out. I keep my B.vagan slings on damp substrate but they like drier substrate when they get bigger. The water dish should be fine for providing humidity.

I agree...but I keep a damp area for even my slightly larger vagans...I don't see them as a "dry only" type species.

lol... the CB parrot :rofl: just joking friend
He also "stole" captain obvious from me...he likes that one even more;)
 
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Trenor

Arachnoprince
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Jan 28, 2016
Messages
1,896
Pulchripes would have been hands down the best choice IMO...just an all around great species.
I still haven't got one of these yet. It is on the list though.

I personally had no interest for this reason and only got a couple because they were like $2 throw ins.....mistake...I really live my sub-adult female....she's a trash compactor.
Mine have just started to show it's colors. I have been kicking around grabbing a few more to up the odds of a female.

Its a sling, it should be on partially moist substrate...and all my Lasiodoras have shown a distinct fondness for the damp over the dry.
I agree...but I keep a damp area for even my slightly larger vagans...I don't see them as a "dry only" type species.
Good to know, I have been letting my B.vagans enclosure start to dry out. I'll have to moisten it up one side.
 

draiko

Arachnosquire
Joined
May 23, 2016
Messages
65
Thanks for the long post cold blood. It hasnt shown itself since i got it so im giving it space.

Okay ill spray water around the water bowl to make it slightly damp.
 

louise f

Arachnoangel
Joined
Jul 8, 2012
Messages
936
Vagans is a pretty skittish t and willing to show off their surprising speed...they can also be on the defensive side...but still a great t, even for a beginner. Bluejay thinks the reason people under-estimate them is because they've never actually seen an adult female in person
I am getting a vagans girl here either today or tomorrow, got 2 MM ready for her, exciting :D + i agree with you Vagans is very underrated indeed. Such a shame.
 

lalberts9310

Arachnoprince
Joined
Oct 9, 2014
Messages
1,083
Its a sling, it should be on partially moist substrate...and all my Lasiodoras have shown a distinct fondness for the damp over the dry.
Wait, wait, OP got a B. vagans, not a Lasiodora. And by the looks of it it looks like a small juvie :p
 
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