Getting my first hot snake

[Mordax8393]

Great advice, but I wouldn't include siamensis as a good entry level elapid. Spitters just add another layer of difficulty with eye shields and being able to spit through enclosure ventilation at an unwary, unshielded passerby. Where did you get a chance to handle a wild Lachesis sp, if I may ask?

Good point. However, most non-spitters commonly available, such as N. melanoleuca or kaouthia (I mean, they can spit but the chance of them spitting at you is like 0.05% and they cant spit that well either) are aggressive and temperamental. I would rather take my chances with a laid back spitter, such as siamensis or nigricincta. It's more just personal prefrence, whatever you feel more comfortable with taking care of.

About the Lachesis: Nice, healthy 5' L. acrochorda (Chocoan bushmaster) found with Tropical Herping in the Ecuadorian choco. Very laid back snake, even after being bagged and photographed, and kept for around 24 hrs. Here's a picture of it:

Lachesis Acrochorda

• Mordax8393
• Feb 18, 2019
• 4

. I don't want to disclose too much more info (habitat, method of finding, exact location, etc.) here where anyone can see it. Message me privately if you want to know.

 

[SonsofArachne]

Good point. However, most non-spitters commonly available, such as N. melanoleuca or kaouthia (I mean, they can spit but the chance of them spitting at you is like 0.05% and they cant spit that well either) are aggressive and temperamental. I would rather take my chances with a laid back spitter, such as siamensis or nigricincta. It's more just personal prefrence, whatever you feel more comfortable with taking care of.

About the Lachesis: Nice, healthy 5' L. acrochorda (Chocoan bushmaster) found with Tropical Herping in the Ecuadorian choco. Very laid back snake, even after being bagged and photographed, and kept for around 24 hrs. Here's a picture of it:

Lachesis Acrochorda

• Mordax8393
• Feb 18, 2019
• 4

. I don't want to disclose too much more info (habitat, method of finding, exact location, etc.) here where anyone can see it. Message me privately if you want to know.

Nice photo, but are you sure that's not a L. muta? - sure looks like one.

 

[l4nsky]

Good point. However, most non-spitters commonly available, such as N. melanoleuca or kaouthia (I mean, they can spit but the chance of them spitting at you is like 0.05% and they cant spit that well either) are aggressive and temperamental. I would rather take my chances with a laid back spitter, such as siamensis or nigricincta. It's more just personal prefrence, whatever you feel more comfortable with taking care of.

About the Lachesis: Nice, healthy 5' L. acrochorda (Chocoan bushmaster) found with Tropical Herping in the Ecuadorian choco. Very laid back snake, even after being bagged and photographed, and kept for around 24 hrs. Here's a picture of it:

Lachesis Acrochorda

• Mordax8393
• Feb 18, 2019
• 4

. I don't want to disclose too much more info (habitat, method of finding, exact location, etc.) here where anyone can see it. Message me privately if you want to know.

Oh God, I would barely recommend a forest cobra for an expert, let alone a beginner. I always heard annulifera is a good beginner cobra, as well as the water cobras and shielded cobra.

Beautiful bushmaster! Definently will PM for some details.

Thanks,
--Matt

 

[Mordax8393]

Oh God, I would barely recommend a forest cobra for an expert, let alone a beginner. I always heard annulifera is a good beginner cobra, as well as the water cobras and shielded cobra.

Beautiful bushmaster! Definently will PM for some details.

Thanks,
--Matt

Can't disagree with that. Annulifera would be ideal but it is rather rare in the pet trade. I mentioned forest cobras because they are readily available.

 

[Mordax8393]

Nice photo, but are you sure that's not a L. muta? - sure looks like one.

This was found west of the Andes so it is definitely acrochorda. They're both very similar and quite variable so I don't use appearance to tell the two apart.

 

[Crone Returns]

@Jayandash Here is my best answer.

My experience level: Never personally kept a hot snake but planning to get one soon. However I have handled (hook, gloves, etc. Obviously not free handled) countless wild venomous snakes including Mojave rattlesnakes, bushmaster, etc. So I would say I am fairly knowledgeable but definitely not an expert.

Before getting a hot snake: I agree what others have said - don't buy a hot snake if there is any doubt in your mind about ability/species.

For me, there are only three types of snake venom. Harmless/mildly venomous such as your average colubrid, boa, or python, meaning handle normally (hands), venomous but not deadly, such as trimeresurus and bothriechis, meaning handle like a deadly snake but you don't need antivenom with you, and deadly venomous (crotalus, Naja, etc.) meaning handle like a deadly snake and have antivenom available. A rock rattlesnake bite is not any less of an emergency than a mojave rattlesnakes bite. Quoting Dingo SA, it's like comparing falling off a fifty floor building to falling off a hundred floor one.

My thoughts on antivenom: if it can kill you, have antivenom available within 1 hour. Less if it is oxyuranus, dendroaspis, etc. Whether or not it can kill you, have an EpiPen in case of allergic reaction ready within 5 minutes. Go to the hospital right away, we don't need anyone dying, but don't say it was a pet snake either. Or at least say you were doing research when you got bit. Avoid media attention. We don't need rules being made against owning snakes because you did something stupid. And we really don't want the general public to hate snakes and snake owners even more.

My thoughts on handling: have someone who can arrive in 5 minutes or less in case of a bite. For anything terrestrial: wear boots. If it is under 3 feet use gloves to handle, otherwise gloves + hook. Use double protection - gloves + tongs for feeding, etc. The most important thing is to give these snakes the respect they need. Once you begin getting careless and handling snakes while distracted or while wearing flip flops is when you get bit.

Choice of species: really, it is experience. I am from the US, so obviously I'm most comfortable with vipers. An Australian would be more comfortable with elapids. Get what family you are most comfortable with. Best vipers: Trimeresurus/tropidolaemus sp., Atheris sp, Bothriechis sp, small crotalus (lepidus etc.), Agkistrodon. Best beginner elapids: Aspidelaps lubricus, death adders, "tamer" Naja - siamensis, etc.

Although venomous snakes shouldn't be feared, they are extremely dangerous. Only get one if you are 100% confident.

Right on.

 

[darkstar305]

Here are some things you need to consider before getting into the 'hot' side of reptile keeping...

1. What is your intention with keeping such an animal? I ask this because this is not a decision to be made lightly. As such you need to be able to objectively pro/con your plans.

2. What is the legality of keeping such animals? Many states & municipalities have ordinances against keeping venomous snakes. Doing so illegally can result in jail time, fines, confiscation of animals, & most importantly... negative publicity towards the hobby.

3. Do you have access to antivenin? By this I mean the ability to acquire & store the appropriate antivenin? This is a must for obvious reasons. Also keep in mind that I'm not mentioning using the hospital's supply of Crofab (Astronomically expensive, btw) or the local zoo's stock if its an exotic bite? I will also throw in that a set of bite protocols is essential for each hot in a collection. They outline the signs & symptoms of envenomation, the appropriate antivenin, and potential complications that may arise.

4. What is your skill level with venomous snakes? This is very important & also ties into my first question. It is easy to get in over your head here. Keep a balanced ego & be honest with yourself.

5. Do you have proper enclosures & equipment or other potential hazards in your home? The best enclosures for venomous are IMO, Vision Cages. However they can be expensive. Also, you would need hooks & tongs (for obvious reasons) as well as shift boxes, temporary storage containers while doing cage maintenance, etc. As far as potential hazards, the access to your hots needs to be STRICTLY ENFORCED!!! Not only should an escape never happen, no one should get into your hot room if they have no business being in there. If you have young children residing with you, then these animals should not be in your home.

Sorry it got a little wordy. I'm quite passionate about the herp community. These happen to be things I have asked myself & for many of the reasons I've outlined (and those I may have missed), I do not keep hots. Hope this helps.