General subspinipes care.

super-pede

Arachnobaron
Joined
Feb 6, 2010
Messages
543
I am not sure if this is in the sticky but I will post it anyways

This caresheet is only for Scolopendrids of the sub-species subspinipes.

This will cover all of the captive care necessities(feeding,watering,humidity,substrate,housing,FAQs,etc.) of this species except for breeding which should be done by experienced keepers only.Each section will be a different post so please don't post till finished.

1. Housing
Take into consideration the size that your centipede may obtain.on average 6-8 inches.the enclosure can be as simple as a 2.5 gallon rubbermaid enclosure with some substrate or as fancy as a 20 gallon complete with live plants and auto-foggers.
A good rule of thumb when housing the centipede is that the enclosure must be twice as tall as the centipede is long +5inches(for substrate depth)and wide enough for the centipede to stretch out full length.
When using a enclosure without a screen lid(such as a rubbermaid),it may be necessary(not mandatory) to drill in a few holes.
 
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super-pede

Arachnobaron
Joined
Feb 6, 2010
Messages
543
Housing-part2(substrate and furnishings)

The most commonly used substrate in the hobby is coco fiber and for good reason.Other popular substrates are peat moss,zilla jungle mix(one of my favorites),vermiculite,potting soil,and coco husk.
I advise using one brick of the coco fiber mixed with spaghnum moss and 1 pound of excavator burrowing substrate.but coco fiber alone will do just fine.
Be sure to have at least 5 inches of substrate to support burrowing.The substrate should always be moist(not wet) to help maintain humidity(more on that later).
Furnishings
Most people don't see they're centipedes often since they are nocturnal.If you get up at night and turn on the light you are likely to see them.Centipedes are very active at night,and if you give them space to explore they will do so.
Some people (such as myself)enjoy spending hours at night watching the centipedes explore.They enjoy climbing,digging,making new burrows and etc.If space permits you may add sturdy structures for climbing and flat rocks are a favorite for hiding under.If you are to add wood make sure that it is mopani or cork bark since these two are reluctant to mold.
In a few of my enclosures I use live plants(sorry,but I hate plastic ones).I use pineapple plants,mini palms,pothos,and mondo grass.Centipedes will often times make they're homes under them which is uber bad-ass.
Centipedes do not require furnishings to be happy.
 
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super-pede

Arachnobaron
Joined
Feb 6, 2010
Messages
543
2.Feeding and watering

I feed all of my centipedes roaches,crickets,mealworms, hornworms, and with some of my larger centipedes a pinky once a month(god forbid,right?).

Feeding
Centipedes will eat anything that they can kill or immobilize.

Once a pedeling gets to the 4 inch mark,in my book it's a sub-adult.Once a sub-adult gets to the 7 inch mark,it's an adult.
At 4-6 inches a centipede can eat adult crickets,meal worms(though many centipedes ignore worms) or 1-2 inch roaches.They should be fed once a week given 2 crickets or one roach.
At 7 inches they will eat adult roaches or horn worms or 3-4 crickets twice a week.
If you are lucky enough to have a 9inch plus centipede they may completely ignore crickets.roaches will then make up they're staple diet.They may at your discretion have a pinky mouse once a month.
for centipedes under 3 inches you should feed them 2 1-3 old week crickets once a week.
Be sure to remove any uneaten prey items and scraps so you do not attract mites or mold.
Water & humidity
Centipedes will dry out very quickly if they are not provided adequate humidity of 70%-90%.
sub adults and pedelings don't really need a water dish but instead higher humidity.For adult centipede a water dish should be provided.
 

super-pede

Arachnobaron
Joined
Feb 6, 2010
Messages
543
3.Heating and lighting
Centipedes in captivity require a constant 70-80 degrees.
(remember,they're tropical)
Heating
Your best bet when providing warm temperatures for your centipede is to keep the ambient temperature warm an you wont need any costly heater configurations.
Never use heat pads(under tank heaters):embarrassed::wall:

Lighting
Don't need any.In fact,they hate light.especially heat lamps.:embarrassed:
 

super-pede

Arachnobaron
Joined
Feb 6, 2010
Messages
543
FAQ's
Q:can I feed my centipede a mouse?
A:you should never feed your centipede rodent larger than a pinky.And don't do it frequently.

Q:I never see my centipede;Is it OK?
A:Your centipede is probably fine.try getting up around 1:00 and you might see it.

Q:Can I hold my centipede?
A:That is your decision,most wouldn't recommend it though.

Q:does my centipede need vitamin supplements?
A:no.

Q:I just bought a centipede with it's fangs clipped,will they grow back?
A:yes they will grow back after 2 molts or so.try mashing up the crickets for it.

Q:What does it feel like when they bite?
A:It feels like you just shattered a bone.

Q:I just bught this cool centipede at the store,how do I care for it?
A:you should have considered that before you bought it.

Q:OMG!!!1!my centaped is whitish!what happening?
A:your centipede just molted and ate the shed skin.

Q:S-P will you sell me a centipede?
A:No I will not!

Q:My centipede just layed eggs,what should I do?
A:Absolutely nothing.Just leave her alone and don't even check on her.

I am sure there are more questions but for right now that's it.
 
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super-pede

Arachnobaron
Joined
Feb 6, 2010
Messages
543
4.Ailments
A lot of(if not most) imported centipedes are wild caught.
Many of them have injuries that will heal on their own.The most common serious injuries centipedes get are gashes on the sides of the centipede.The sides of centipede are soft and vulnerable to injury.
If you are careful with your centipede they will not get hurt in your care.

Mitesthere is enough coverage on mites on these boards already.
 
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cacoseraph

ArachnoGod
Old Timer
Joined
Jan 5, 2005
Messages
8,325
i only feed prekilled mice, but that being said... i definitely would not feed a centipede a mouse of any kind in its living enclosure. they are very messy eaters, and pinkies are no exception. you will almost certainly get blood and guts on your sub if you feed in tank and that raises the chance of the sub going bad by quite a bit, imo


if you have gleaner/cleaner bugs in with your centipede it could be very different, but i have never gotten into them all that much, for fear of them interrupting the reproduction cycle somehow
 

neubii18

Arachnosquire
Old Timer
Joined
Dec 14, 2009
Messages
74
How hot is too hot?I live in so cal,and my room gets 85-90 degrees during the day.the summer is the only really hot time.do you keep any subspinipes Andrew?I know we live really close.do yours do good?
 

J Morningstar

Arachnoprince
Old Timer
Joined
Sep 13, 2003
Messages
1,314
@ Cacoseraph,
You are indeed an invert God, but I had a large ...8-9 inch PuertoRican Giant and he would hibernate for 5-6 months every winter, (this was scary and I had to get used to it) but he would not eat this entier time, then, I would warm a frozen pinky rat for him every spring when I saw his antenna from his burrow he would eat every bit after it was put in, everything but the skull. I never had any mess or stink, I like to keep isopods with my centi's but he never had any.
Once a month might be a little much but they can get the lot of the smaller baby rodents down pretty efficently.
:worship:
 

super-pede

Arachnobaron
Joined
Feb 6, 2010
Messages
543
this care sheet can be applied to the following species as well:
S.hardwickei
S.alternans
S.gigantea
S.viridicornis
A.grandideiri
H.marginata
R.longipes
the housing and temp/humid part will apply to just about any tropical species.
the feeding section will work for most pedes but it should be adjusted for the smaller pedes(ryhsida,alipes,hemiscolopendra).
 

cacoseraph

ArachnoGod
Old Timer
Joined
Jan 5, 2005
Messages
8,325
this care sheet can be applied to the following species as well:
S.hardwickei
S.alternans
S.gigantea
S.viridicornis
A.grandideiri
H.marginata
R.longipes
the housing and temp/humid part will apply to just about any tropical species.
the feeding section will work for most pedes but it should be adjusted for the smaller pedes(ryhsida,alipes,hemiscolopendra).
one of those is not like the others =P
 

grenville joseph

Arachnopeon
Joined
Dec 6, 2016
Messages
14
Hey, I live in a pretty naturally humid country (Malaysia), and was wondering if it'd be okay to keep pedelings in a room that's air conditioned throughout the night?
 
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