G. Rosea rehousing, looking for criticism. Novice T keeper.

[Venom1080]

They don't, but they are not immortal either, so there will always be a final size. And that final size prior to physiological shut down I am confident is dependent on food intake, but influenced by genetics, and the environment.

That'd be nice.

Even if it were true I doubt the differences would be as extreme as you said.

 

[efmp1987]

Not necessarily, accelerating their growth by increasing temps and food intake could very well cause them to mature at smaller sizes in some cases, I don't think there's a set amount of instars before a male "hooks out".

Thank you for the input That'd be strange indeed, knowing that fluid content in the opisthosoma derived from food intake is a significant contributing factor in carapace size after a molt (as per @Nightstalker47 "more food/nutrients should lead to larger growth spurts between molts"). I don't think spiders lose hemolyph via evaporation during ecdysis (can someone confirm?).

 

[Nightstalker47]

Thank you for the input That'd be strange indeed, knowing that fluid content in the opisthosoma derived from food intake is a significant contributing factor in carapace size after a molt (as per @Nightstalker47 "more food/nutrients should lead to larger growth spurts between molts"). I don't think spiders lose hemolyph via evaporation during ecdysis (can someone confirm?).

I don't see why they would, hemolyph is inside the spiders exoskeleton, so it's not exposed to the air. The molting fluid secreted is something different entirely, if that's what you're referring to.

 

[efmp1987]

I don't see why they would, hemolyph is inside the spiders exoskeleton, so it's not exposed to the air. The molting fluid secreted is something different entirely, if that's what you're referring to.

Thank you my good sir.

 

[The Grym Reaper]

Thank you for the input That'd be strange indeed, knowing that fluid content in the opisthosoma derived from food intake is a significant contributing factor in carapace size after a molt (as per @Nightstalker47 "more food/nutrients should lead to larger growth spurts between molts")

And that final size prior to physiological shut down I am confident is dependent on food intake, but influenced by genetics, and the environment.

Power feeding makes them grow faster, not bigger. You're going on like power feeding a Lasiodora will make it grow as big as a Theraphosa.

I'm going to try to explain this using an extremely limited grasp of genetics...

(I apologise to all the science heads in advance, my areas of expertise are video games, multisyllabic rhyming, reducing things to their component parts with my bare hands, internet Captain Jack Sparrow-ing and surviving things that should probably kill me)

Say that both parent spiders were the runts of their sacs (two specimens that inherited some crappy genetic trait that meant they didn't grow as fast or as large as their respective sac mates despite being kept under the same conditions, specimens that probably wouldn't have even made it to adulthood let alone managed to breed in the wild but were afforded the opportunity to do so in captivity because *Xerxes voice* we are generous gods) and your sling inherits the allele responsible for that reduced size from both parents, no amount of power feeding is going to make it suddenly grow to the maximum adult size for the species, it will just reach its genetically predetermined smaller adult size quicker.

If anything, final size would be dependent on genetics and influenced by food intake/environment.

 

[pokewa]

While you wait for the water dishes to be shipped use a bottle cap or something as a water dish. I don't know how often Ts drink, but I do know that dehydration kills.

Thanks for the idea, I've filled the lid of a contact case (thoroughly washed) with water and placed it in a flat area for now.

I would put in a water dish now so anytime T is thirsty, there is water.
I would add more substrate also.
I havent used a Kritter Keeper but I have read that there is a risk of a T hanging at the top and losing a leg, similar to the risk of screen tops. Some folks put saran wrap or tape to prevent this. I am not sure as I haven't done that. So hopefully someone else will offer input.
I think that slow growth rate is typical for that species and they can go a long time without food.
Lovely T. Hopefully he is settling in nicely!

Following your suggestion, I've made up another batch of cocofiber. It'll be drying for a bit, but hopefully no falls before then. About the vent spacing, I'm going to just hope for the the best and no stuck legs for now. The two other users that weighed in on that topic have calmed my nerves. Glad to know the growth rate isn't an issue. Thanks for all your input!

You can start keeping the substrate dry now. Humidity is not a concern, they prefer dry....a water dish is all you need.

Also keep in mind that as it grows, it will likely stop using a hide...one should be offerref, but dont be surprised if it doesnt use it, especially as it grows.

Its one of the slowest growing species around, and has a slow metabolism....faster now, but glacial as adults.

Thanks for the information. I had always thought hides were a necessary thing for Ts. Good to know that he can hold out until one arrives in the mail.

I use Kritter Keepers.

All they need is the right amount of substrate, a water dish, and a hide. Feed once a week or every other week. Their food requirements are incredibly low.

No humidity, substrate should be dry.

Here is my G. porteri set up. Yours appears to be a G. porteri btw, not a rosea

@darkness975
Thanks! All of my concerns have been cleared up. After adding a bit more substrate and a nice little hide, my guy should be set.

A quick question about the species of this tarantula, though, since you seem to be much better informed than I am. G. porteri and G. rosea are distinctly different species, correct? I was under the impression that G. rosea had two different color "morphs," a reddish and a grayish, but it seems this knowledge is outdated or plain wrong. Of course vendors can make mistakes or simply be ignorant of the species they're dealing with, unfortunately, but could you help me understand how you're able to tell distinguish this a G. porteri? By no means am I doubting your eye for Ts, I would just like to be better informed about the creature I am keeping.

Furthermore, would a G. rosea and a G. porteri be able to breed together? It seems ideal conditions to keep the two species are about the same, so that gives me peace of mind. And that's a very nice looking tarantula you've got! Thanks again for your help.



And thanks again to everyone who spent the time and effort to read this post and provide advice. This is quite a welcoming forum here.

 

[pokewa]

@Nightstalker47 , @The Grym Reaper ,@efmp1987

Although these specific pieces of information are lost on me, as I simply enjoy watching tarantulas do their thing, it's very nice that this post has generated constructive conversation about tarantula physiology. I hope to one day be as knowledgeable as you keepers are. Cheers!

 

[efmp1987]

@Nightstalker47 , @The Grym Reaper ,@efmp1987

Although these specific pieces of information are lost on me, as I simply enjoy watching tarantulas do their thing, it's very nice that this post has generated constructive conversation about tarantula physiology. I hope to one day be as knowledgeable as you keepers are. Cheers!

I am not on par with any of these keepers that you have tagged. Maybe one day. I started keeping Ts only 2 moths ago

 

[The Grym Reaper]

G. porteri and G. rosea are distinctly different species, correct? I was under the impression that G. rosea had two different color "morphs," a reddish and a grayish, but it seems this knowledge is outdated or plain wrong. Of course vendors can make mistakes or simply be ignorant of the species they're dealing with, unfortunately

Yes, two different species. It was believed that they were colour morphs of G. rosea, G. rosea (NCF - normal colour form) was renamed G. porteri while G. rosea (RCF - red colour form) is now just G. rosea.

G. rosea is distinguished by the red/pink setae all over its body, G. porteri is grey/brown.

Yeah, some vendors are awful for refusing to get with the times, this is why you occasionally see stuff like:

G. pulchripes still being labelled as "G. aureostriata"
P. muticus labelled as "C. crawshayi"
B. hamorii labelled as "B. smithi" (this one is a fairly recent revision and thus is common to see)

Furthermore, would a G. rosea and a G. porteri be able to breed together?

It's a possibility but the hybridisation of two different species is a big no-no in tarantula keeping.

 

[darkness975]

@pokewa

@The Grym Reaper covered the differences .

I also agree that, biologically speaking, they're capable of interbreeding it is best to not.

 

[pokewa]

Yes, two different species. It was believed that they were colour morphs of G. rosea, G. rosea (NCF - normal colour form) was renamed G. porteri while G. rosea (RCF - red colour form) is now just G. rosea.

G. rosea is distinguished by the red/pink setae all over its body, G. porteri is grey/brown.

Great, that's exactly the information I was unable to grasp. Thank you

It's a possibility but the hybridisation of two different species is a big no-no in tarantula keeping.

The Grym Reaper covered the differences .

I also agree that, biologically speaking, they're capable of interbreeding it is best to not.

Alright, I'll definitely be careful about such things if the situation ever arises for this tarantula. Thanks all.