Dune scorpion died :( now what?

Mojo

Arachnopeon
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Mar 15, 2018
Messages
9
Hi guys! Sadly, my dune scorpion just passed away. I was wondering if there is anything else that can live in his cage.
His cage is a 10 gallon long tank and has a heat lamp, about 4-5 inches of sand (calcium sand, only thing available) and several pieces of drift wood scattered about.
What animals can live here with minimal changes done to tank? Another type of scorpion or reptile or even a lizard? Any answers help! :)
 

pannaking22

Arachnoemperor
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Nov 25, 2011
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Sorry to hear, dune scorps are fun to keep.

I'd recommend a reptile of some sort, especially if you're going to keep the calcium sand.
 

Mjb30

Arachnosquire
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Nov 27, 2017
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62
A heat lamp is not a good idea for a scorpion at all unfortunately. If you don't want to change the tank then some sort of reptile would work best for you I think.
 

RTTB

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Dec 4, 2016
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Get rid of the heat lamp and get another Dune. Room temperature in the 70s is fine for them.
 

Liquifin

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I can't really think of a reptile going in a sand enclosure. As a matter of fact, sand can cause impaction for a reptile, as they cannot digest sand if it is consumed by accident while feeding it. So I wouldn't really recommend a reptile, unless there is a reptile that can do fine in a sand enclosure without impaction while feeding.
 

Jurdon

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Jan 30, 2018
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178
I'd recommend a reptile of some sort, especially if you're going to keep the calcium sand.
Calcium sand isn’t really fit for anything to live on IMO, except for mold. Just curious, where do you buy pet supplies where you can get calcium sand and nothing else? Most pet stores at least sell coco fiber.
 

Mojo

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Mar 15, 2018
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Calcium sand isn’t really fit for anything to live on IMO, except for mold. Just curious, where do you buy pet supplies where you can get calcium sand and nothing else? Most pet stores at least sell coco fiber.
I got it at my local pet store.
So most people say heat lamp is a bad idea? If I ditch the lamp and get another dune do you guys think I will get better luck? I usually offer 1-2 crickets a week
 

Jurdon

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Jan 30, 2018
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178
I got it at my local pet store.
So most people say heat lamp is a bad idea? If I ditch the lamp and get another dune do you guys think I will get better luck? I usually offer 1-2 crickets a week
I’m no scorp expert, but I’d have to say it depends on what temps are without the heat lamp. The calci-sand could still pose a problem, but if temps are suitable without the lamp then you may see improvement.
 

Mojo

Arachnopeon
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Mar 15, 2018
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I’m no scorp expert, but I’d have to say it depends on what temps are without the heat lamp. The calci-sand could still pose a problem, but if temps are suitable without the lamp then you may see improvement.
Temps usually hover around 70
 

Mojo

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Mar 15, 2018
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I’m going to expand the limits a little. What would be the cheapest pet to get from what I have now? By cheap I mean not price of the pet itself but of redesigning my tank. I’m thinking of leopard gecko, replacing sand with carpet and adding a hide. Other suggestions?
 

Tim Benzedrine

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It will run off topic, but since you asked...

Leopard geckos make good pets. You'll have to invest a bit more, and IMO, it's good idea using carpet. Reptile carpet has its critics, but it has worked pretty well for my two leopard geckos and snake. There are plenty of alternatives though. Some better than others.

Two caveats on it. One of the critiques of the product is that reptiles can snag their teeth on it when lunging for prey. This is true. I've seen it happen first-hand with both my geckos and my snake. I remedy that by feeding on a shallow container with a slight rim on it plate. when I am feeding crickets to my lizards, I cripple them a bit so they are not that quick to jump out. This of course adds time to the process but feeding time is enjoyable for me, so I don't mind feeding crickets individually.
The snake solution was even easier. Before I got wise, I'd drag the frozen/thawed mouse across the carpet to stimulate a feeding response. But on a couple occasions the snake would lunge and miss, and given that their teeth curve inward, he got really stuck. Bit I now just dangle and twitch the prey a few inches above the flooring and he snatches it out of the air. If he misses, no big deal, he just gathers his wits and takes another shot at it.
I've never witnessed my geckos getting stuck claws in the material, but I've seen people say it happens and of course I don't watch the lizards 24/7 so I can not say with certainty that it never happens. I consider it an acceptable risk. I recently read of a fix to minimalize the risk, involving ironing on low temperature, but I have never tried ot.

The other criticism is that it can harbor bacteria. Regular common sense maintenance renders that criticism sort of invalid. in the case of leopard geckos, they choose one spot to pass waste, and one merely has to put a swatch of material (A small square of reptile carpet works well, but it can be paper towel or something else of that nature. Both of my geckos chose a corner in their respective enclosures, and I think this is a common trait.
When I feel it is time for a complete cleaning, I remove the carpet, scrape any stray contaminants from it and soak it for a few minutes in a mild bleach solution while I attend to other maintenance chores. Then I run the carpet through a wash in rinse cycle.
Again, you are on the right track. Absolutely do not keep them on sand. The risk of impaction from that is too high.
Oh, and having a couple carpets is very advantageous, it enables you to swap out. I have ten or so between the snake and two leopard geckos. That way, I don't have to wash them nearly as often.

Now a few other investments will include a heat mat, temperature monitoring gear, and possibly the most costly item, a thermostat to connect your heat-source to. heat mats can get a bit warm, and it is a pretty good idea to have something that you can set the desired temperature to. You can get basic ones for around 30 dollars. I use a Hydrofarm Jumstart, designed for propagating seeds, it works equally well for under tank heaters or heat lamps. I've had mine for 15 months with no issues. It probably lacks the pinpoint accuracy of the high-end models designed for reptiles, but in the case of a leopard gecko at least, I don't consider a degree or two variable to be of concern. https://www.amazon.com/MTPRTC-Contr...139513&sr=8-1&keywords=jump+start+thermostats

A lot of other items can be DIY types of things. Hides, (hot end, cool end, and a humid hide) etc can be fabricated. You can be creative with decorations as well.
Geckos and other reptiles will require calcium and vitamin supplements.
An adult leopard gecko can be kept in a ten-gallon, but both you and the lizard will get much more satisfaction from a 20-gallon long. Part of the reason is that a lot of the fun of keeping such critters is enclosure design, and your space to do so is pretty limited in a ten-gallon. A more practical reason is that it is harder to create a hot and cool end in a 10 gallon, something that should be implemented.

K, as mentioned, I entered inappropriate content territory for this sub-forum, but I covered a few basics. The "not so spineless wonders" area is a more appropriate place for this. I have three scorpions, (Asian forest) which I keep because they are interesting. But to be frank, I consider my geckos and snake to be more "fun".
 

Mojo

Arachnopeon
Joined
Mar 15, 2018
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9
Let’s say I did just go try #2 with the dune scorpion? What changes do you suggest making? Obviously take out the heat lamp. If my house is at about 70 F do I need a heat mat?
 

basin79

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Sorry to hear, dune scorps are fun to keep.

I'd recommend a reptile of some sort, especially if you're going to keep the calcium sand.
Calcium sand is terrible for reptiles. That type of sand actually can cause impactions.
 

basin79

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I can't really think of a reptile going in a sand enclosure. As a matter of fact, sand can cause impaction for a reptile, as they cannot digest sand if it is consumed by accident while feeding it. So I wouldn't really recommend a reptile, unless there is a reptile that can do fine in a sand enclosure without impaction while feeding.
Regular sand is fine. Calcium sand is dangerous though.
 

CWilson1351

Arachnobaron
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Jan 23, 2017
Messages
454
Like others have said, the sand is the first thing that would have to go if you went with any reptile.
As for another scorpion, I would prefer to see some photos of the 10 gallon (as it's currently setup) before making any solid recommendations. The heat lamp is the only one I can say needs to go. The 70 degrees seems low to me for constant temperature for a Smeringurus mesaensis, if possible a space heater to help raise the temperature closer to 80 (at least) would be better.
 

KYguy

Arachnopeon
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Jan 31, 2018
Messages
40
Why is everyone against a heat lamp?

I was under the impression that incandescent light stressed scorpions, but I read that scorps can't see infrared light.

I also read that heating mats could be dangerous, unless placed on the side of the tank? But many have hard time getting tank temps up with this method.

So I have been using a small infrared basking light, 13" above my substrate. And it keeps a perfect 80 degree tank.

What do?!?!
 
Last edited:

KYguy

Arachnopeon
Joined
Jan 31, 2018
Messages
40
Why is everyone against heating lamp?

I read that heating mats where dangerous, unless on the side of the tank. But people where having a hard time getting temperatures up with this method.

I also read that incandescent bulbs stressed scorps, but that they could not see infrared.

So I have been using a small infrared basking light, 13" above my substrate. And it keeps a perfect 80 degree tank. And they have been doing great, but then I read the post above and its got me worried.


What do?!?!?!
 

Jurdon

Arachnoknight
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Jan 30, 2018
Messages
178
I read that heating mats where dangerous, unless on the side of the tank. But people where having a hard time getting temperatures up with this method
For scorps or geckos? For reptiles, regulated heat mats are arguably the best way to heat, as they apply heat from below, but for that same reason, they are fatal to inverts unless used as you’ve mentioned.
I’m thinking of leopard gecko, replacing sand with carpet and adding a hide. Other suggestions?
You’d need more than that. Leopard geckos require at least three hides (warm end, cool end, moist), water dish, calcium, multivitamin, and ditch the heat lamp for a heat pad (regulated by a thermostat. I drafted this part about 5 hours ago but it seems Tim’s beaten me to it.
 
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