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Chromatopelma Cyaneopubescens Care Sheet ( Slings )

Discussion in 'Tarantula Questions & Discussions' started by SchubertHelm, May 17, 2017.

  1. Andrea82

    Andrea82 Arachnoprince Active Member

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    Don't know how that is on the other side of the pond, but here we keep the slings of this species on dry substrate with a waterdish. No devices needed to measure anything.
    KISS applies here, I believe.

    Edit. Forgot to mention that slings or older members of this species often die because they are kept too wet. The wither away in wet conditions like other T's do in too dry conditions.
     
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  2. Interesting, can you explain why this is?
     
  3. BishopiMaster

    BishopiMaster Arachnobaron Active Member

    Why does KISS apply specifically here?
     
  4. cold blood

    cold blood ArachnoGod Active Member

    You quoted 7 different points...can you be more specific?
     
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  6. cold blood

    cold blood ArachnoGod Active Member

    Because a t will only eat so much before being ready to molt....lets say for a particular sling its 5 crickets and it will be filled....well, that sling also needs a certain amount of time to pass to allow for its body to produce the new exo skeleton...lets say that's 40 days.

    Now, you could feed those 5 crickets weekly (one a week) and it might fill up right in line with its new growth and you might not get much of any fasting period and growth will still be occurring at a near maximum pace. (assuming for the sake of the example that temps are ideal)

    But if you take the same one, and feed it those 5 crickets to that sling in a single week, its now plump, uninterested in food and just awaiting its molting process to finish underneath its old exo...so in this case that t might be fasting for a month because food intake greatly out paced the ts own biological ability to be ready for that next molt.


    Light feeding schedules will have a more profound effect slowing growth than heavy feeding schedules will with regards to speeding growth. Like if I fed that aforementioned sling twice a month...now its taking me 75 days to feed those 5 crickets and plump the t...which is 35 days longer than the quickest time the t can form a new exo...so now you are waiting on the food supply to catch up with the biology, which would in essence, potentially double the amount of time between molts.

    Neither is wrong or right, the t won't suffer or anything, it will just fast a lot longer if fed heavily, which for new keepers, can be incredibly frustrating as we see in threads on a regular basis.

    Its very easy to feed at a faster pace than the t can be ready to molt biologically...which is why pre-molt fasts are normal...and why heavy feeding schedules generally see much longer fasting periods.

    Temps also play a more significant role as well, but that's another discussion as ideal temps are needed to truly maximize growth rates...too low and things will slow...and the same thing will actually occur if things are kept too hot...everything has an ideal temp...IME it seems like 77-82 produces the most consistently fast growth rates.
     
    Last edited: May 18, 2017
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  7. Chris LXXIX

    Chris LXXIX Arachnoemperor Active Member

    Detroit Rock City, probably :troll:
     
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  8. Thanks for the in-depth explanation @cold blood.
     
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  9. Andrea82

    Andrea82 Arachnoprince Active Member

    Because, if there is one species that is easy and simple to keep, as slings or older, it is this species.
     
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  10. BishopiMaster

    BishopiMaster Arachnobaron Active Member

    So, we should keep them basic, because we can.
     
  11. cold blood

    cold blood ArachnoGod Active Member

    no, because thats how it is keeping a GBB....The only way you could have an issue with this species would be by over complicating an otherwise simple keep.
     
  12. BishopiMaster

    BishopiMaster Arachnobaron Active Member

    Are you suggesting that humidity poses an issue for GBB's?
     
  13. cold blood

    cold blood ArachnoGod Active Member

    For anything but a sling, it certainly does unless its minimal....yes.
     
  14. BishopiMaster

    BishopiMaster Arachnobaron Active Member

    Why? have you experienced a GBB sling dying from being kept 'too' humid?
     
  15. cold blood

    cold blood ArachnoGod Active Member

    Ive experienced threads from others...I know better, I keep mine dry so I never have an issue. Too much moisture can kill them...much like many baboons.
     
  16. BishopiMaster

    BishopiMaster Arachnobaron Active Member

    You keep yours dry, but you believe a water dish, as small as one is in a sling enclosure, will elevate humidity, so you think that the moisture is the issue? What's interesting, and, I've only kept a few baboons, but what I feel is that one of the reasons arid tarantula species tend to be heavier webbers, in the old worlds, is to conserve humidity in their burrows, evolutionarily speaking, I wonder what the actual issue with moisture is.
     
  17. Andrea82

    Andrea82 Arachnoprince Active Member

    Sorry, but I will not engage in endless semantics and wording debates with you like you are doing with other members. Good day sir ;)
     
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  18. BishopiMaster

    BishopiMaster Arachnobaron Active Member

    Ahh yes, justification == semantics, good day, sir
     
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  19. sasker

    sasker Arachnoknight Active Member

    You do realize you are addressing a woman here, right? :rolleyes:
     
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  20. cold blood

    cold blood ArachnoGod Active Member

    Now you are making things up and attributing them to me....as I have said and repeatedly quoted...a water dish is there as a safety net to provide hydration...its NOT there to elevate humidity...A GBB has no humidity requirements, like baboons... but they will still drink from time to time.