Best vivarium specimen?

[DerekG4]

My L. parahybana kicks hairs much more often than my A. geniculata, these are the only two species whose hairs affect me so far, A. geniculata hairs cause itching that lasts for a few hours, L. parahybana hairs cause severe itching that lasts for at least a day and a mild rash that usually goes after a day or two.

Out of the two I'd get the genic, both get to around the same size, both grow fast, both are always out when they get bigger and both eat like they've never been fed but the genic looks 1,000 x better and its hairs aren't as bad

my L. parahybana . . . kick massive clouds of hairs.

Well, looks like L. Parahybana is off my list and now G. Iheringi is on it.

Tarantula behavioral tendencies are volatile. IME, most NW t's are really sluggish at shows anyway. On top of that, tarantulas have been known to change their "mood" from molt to molt, or even from day to day. With that said, there are some individuals that just tend to lean one way or the other. All I'm saying is that don't expect all too much reliability from observing a t react to stimulus at a reptile show, nor should you place 100% trust in sellers telling you that a particular specimen is calm.

I didn't think they can change moods so quickly, but I suppose I'll still buy from an expo or a breeder. With these shipping costs from websites I'm practically paying double the price for a T.

This is a generalist statement that I don't personally agree with. None of this is meant to bash you, just to inform. There are way too many species of tarantulas as well as too many species of scorpions to make such a broad statement. For example, the scorpions in the Hadogenes genus are extremely hardy and just as easy to care for as Grammostola rosea/porteri/etc. (like keeping a pet rock). A plus side to most scorpions is that height doesn't matter and many species (Hadogenes included) do not burrow or do very little burrowing. Many other desert species of scorpions are also extremely easy, however scorpions can have stronger venom depending on species. Also, many species of tarantulas need specific environments to live/thrive/breed. Megaphobema mesomelas and velvetosoma comes to mind, they need cooler temps to thrive and breed.

On the other end of the spectrum there are tarantulas that are extremely easy (like the aforementioned G. rosea/porteri/etc.) and difficult to care for scorpions. Some desert species of scorpions need a delicate balance of humidity and dryness in certain parts of their substrate to thrive, molt, and breed successfully.

It's alright, I'm happy to read about all this and learn about these creatures.

So far I've been making a pros and cons list of all the possible contestants.

Tarantulas:

G. Pulchra:
pros: pretty docile, low chance of kicking hairs, has a bright color.
Cons: not as big as the other Ts.

G. Iheringi:
Pros: somewhat large size, nice coloration, low chance of kicking hairs, fairly active.
Cons: can be skittish, sometimes defensive, more expensive than the other Ts, not commonly sold.

G. Pulchripes:
Pros: great large size, pretty docile, good eaters.
Cons: coloration not as bright as the other Ts.

A. Geniculata:
Pros: great large size, nice coloration, grows fast, out in the open when large, good eaters, can be docile at times.
Cons: chance of kicking hairs.

Scorpions:

P. Imperator:
Pros: large size, nice color, weak venom, docile, low chance of stinging.
Cons: needs heat pad, true emperors will be hard to find.

Heterometrus spp:
Pros: larger than emperor, nice color, weak venom, cheaper than emperor.
Cons: needs heat pad, not as docile as emperor, higher chance of stinging than an emperor.

Frogs:

D. Tinctorius 'azureus':
Pros: beautiful coloration, can be added to a terrarium with live plants, not very expensive, diurnal and active.
Cons: can be noisy if male, requires more work with humidity, may be more of a hassle with food (fruit flies), prettiest plants for it will need a special light.

Is there anything else I should add/remove from the list?

No problem.
Its pretty much a jungle, yeah. You can see it here:
http://arachnoboards.com/threads/enclosure-terrarium-pictures.48951/page-77#post-2536677
I don't want to post pics in the OP's thread or hijack it.

Nice vivarium, that's roughly what I wanted to do, I wanted to make a vivarium with some ferns, bromeliads and a few different kinds of moss.

 

[Tim Benzedrine]

I came in specifically to suggest A. geniculata or L. parahybana, but of course they have already been mentioned, and you seem to know their pros and cons. I think the larger species such as they lend themselves well to the vivarium style you are envisioning. Particularly the geniculata due to it's striking colouration. But, those two can be a bit skittish and do kick some hair which is reputed to be pretty nasty. I haven't been haired yet, but I'm pretty sure my time will come. Another benefit of those two is that they can tolerate a bit higher humidity, and it is believed by many that they benefit from it. This makes it a little easier to maintain live plants, I think.
I'm intending to create something a bit more display quality for my L. parahybana, and likely will after she gets through her upcoming moult. I may go with fake plnts, though, I haven't really decided.

Asian scorpions are as pointed out pretty inexpensive and kind of cool. My only objection (I have two, a sub-adult and a baby) is that I don't really see them that much. They are nocturnal and light-phobic. They ARE a little feistier than emperors, but i don't handle, so that isn't much of an issue for me. A heat pad isn't really a big issue, afixing to the side eliminates part of the downside. But mine has not been given the acid test of how high of temperatures I'll be able to maintain once really cold weather sets in, my house is pretty old and drafty. So I may have to take extra measures.
That's about all i have to offer.

Oh, a pac-man frog might be a consideration. They are sort of fun. Not super dynamic, but love to eat. I made a planted tank for mine using pothos plants. The plants took off so well that I had to periodically prune them, they would take over the tank. Unfortunately, the frog died for some unknown reason after I kept him for around 4 years.

 

[BobBarley]

Heterometrus are usually smaller than Pandinus imperator, an exception may be swammerdami.

Also consider some communal Phrynus marginemaculatus or a similar species of Amblypygid. Those little guys are the best.

 

[JoshDM020]

Im just going to jump in and point out that if youre looking to handle, i would toss out A. geniculata for sure. Everything is food to them until theyve bitten it to make sure its not. If it moves, it gets bitten. I play a game with mine kinda similar to tag. I blow in an airhole, it runs to it, fangs a blazing, and then i blow in another one, aaaand repeat. They arent docile. They just... deal with it. Unless it moves.
Ive yet to own a G. iheringi, but ive heard that theyre a little bit the same way. Something along the lines of "most vicious feeding response of the Grammostolas". Someone please tell me if im wrong.
Id also never recommend handling in general, but I'll let someone else give that speech. Ill just say its not safe for you or the spider.
I dont know much about scorpions other than id personally never handle it even if it was proven by science they loved it.
Frogs... just... dont eat em? Ive seen dogs go on some pretty hard trips after eating some toads.
But seriously. If youre wanting to handle, say so now so people can at least recommend more handleable species. Like Euthalus sp. red. Not big at all, but about the closest thing to a cuddle buddy youre gonna get out of this hobby.


P.S. Do NOT cuddle tarantulas. You will be itchy and probably squish it.
P.S.S. They do not have to kick the hairs off for them to make you itchy. If you pet them, you will itch.

 

[Ungoliant]

I wanted to get something that's easy to take care of. I've read that tarantulas don't really need any heat or light source as long as the temp is constintently at room temperature. My bedroom (where I'm putting it) is roughly always around 72-77 degrees Fahrenheit. Are scoripions the same as tarantulas that they don't need any heat or light? I would much rather prefer an animal that doesn't need a heat or light source. I already have a fair amount of animals (birds, reptiles, fish, and others) which is why I wanted something that's easy and something that can be left alone for a couple days if I go out somewhere like a cruise or something. If anyone has experience here with frogs I would also like your input on them.

I don't have experience with frogs or scorpions, but as far as tarantulas go, they meet all of your criteria. They are the very definition of a low-maintenance pet.

Tarantulas not only don't need a light source but thrive in darkness. (Most species are nocturnal.) They can go months without food, so if you need to leave for a few days (or even a week or two), they will be fine.

If I get a tarantula, I don't know which species to get. I wanted to get an Avicularia species of some sort but I've been told at my local reptile shop that they can get a little fast and have a fair tendency to bite. i would prefer a terrestrial tarantula that is fairly docile, one that doesn't flick hairs (at least not often) for whatever reason it escapes it'll be easy to recapture. I would also prefer one that has a fair amount of color (either it being bright and/or it just having more colors) but I don't mind sacrificing color for a tarantula that is potentially more docile and bigger (and possibly cheaper, if it has a huge price difference). I also don't mind if it webs up the terrarium a bit, as long as it doesn't fill the entire tank with web to the point that all I see is web and can't see the tarantula. I'm probably asking too much out of a tarantula haha.

You will want to start with a hardy beginner-friendly species. Some (generally) docile terrestrial species include Grammostola pulchra (more expensive but a gorgeous velvety black), Grammostola pulchripes (dark with striped legs), Brachypelma albopilosum (no bright colors but can look very fluffy), and Brachypelma emilia (black with red markings).

These species are docile, hardy, don't require a very moist setup, and will be fine at the temperature range you described. They also are less prone to flicking hairs and, with the exception of Grammostola pulchra and Brachypelma emilia, grow at a decent rate.

Are you planning to handle your pet? We generally recommend against handling, as it provides no benefit to the tarantula but creates unnecessary risk of bites, injurious falls, or escapes. If you insist on handling, you will want a docile terrestrial. (But keep in mind that tarantulas can behave unpredictably, and it's always possible to end up with a tarantula that is more defensive than the average member of its species.)

If you are willing to forego handling Acanthoscurria geniculata would be another good choice. They get large (7"+) and have striking coloring. However, they think everything is food, including your fingers, so you will want to do all maintenance with tongs. (This is a good habit to develop regardless of what you keep.)

Avicularia are more flighty than bitey. They are not recommended for handling, because they are prone to take leaps of faith. In the jungle, they are likely to be able to catch themselves on leaves or branches. In your home, they are more likely to fall onto a hard surface, which can be fatal.

@EulersK made these videos highlighting some beginner species:

Tom Moran also has these recommendations for beginner species:

Also, is there a certain tank shape that I should do if I do get an invert instead of a frog? I plan on making it like my leopard gecko's tank (I'll post a picture) with the same door concept but I can add some mesh to the top and some parts to the side for ventilation if necessary.

For a terrestrial tarantula, you will want a container that has more horizontal than vertical space. The distance between the top of the substrate and the lid should not exceed 1.5 times the tarantula's leg span. This is to prevent injuries from falls. (Large, bulky terrestrials are vulnerable to abdominal ruptures if they fall onto a hard surface or even a softer surface from a significant height.)

Horizontally, I generally try to give them about 3 times their leg span to move in any direction.

I would also like to add real plants to the tank if it's not too much of a hassle. Is there any plants that I could add that don't require a special light for them? If there's none I suppose I'll just use fake plants, or if the animal I'm getting is destructive with real plants. I would very much like it to be a vivarium instead of a regular terrarium.

We generally don't recommend using live plants in a tarantula enclosure due to the additional challenges:

• The needs of the tarantula and the plant are often at odds. Most plants do well with at least some sunlight, whereas you want to avoid placing your tarantula's cage in sunlight. (The greenhouse effect can quickly cause the cage to be overheated.)
• Most of the beginner-friendly tarantula species require little or no moisture in their substrate.
• Tarantulas tend to move their substrate around and may dig up any live plants. (Fake plants can be secured to the enclosure.)

 

[The Grym Reaper]

I didn't think they can change moods so quickly

Yeah, they can also change temperament between moults, so a previously docile specimen can become extremely defensive after a moult and vice versa, I've actually had this happen with my Brachypelma hamorii who went from "insanely docile pet rock" to "evil beeyatch".

I used to handle her (back when I still handled them) but she greets me like this now.

My B. hamorii is still defective.

• The Grym Reaper
• Jul 23, 2017
• 8
• brachypelma brachypelma hamorii brachypelma smithi hamorii mexican redknee tarantula threat threat pose threat posture

She still thinks she's a P. cancerides.

Something along the lines of "most vicious feeding response of the Grammostolas". Someone please tell me if im wrong.

That's accurate, I've watched mine chase red runners around her enclosure, the only thing they share in common with other Grammostola is the name (which probably explains why they're my favourite species from the genus lol).

 

[DerekG4]

Im just going to jump in and point out that if youre looking to handle, i would toss out A. geniculata for sure. Everything is food to them until theyve bitten it to make sure its not. If it moves, it gets bitten. I play a game with mine kinda similar to tag. I blow in an airhole, it runs to it, fangs a blazing, and then i blow in another one, aaaand repeat. They arent docile. They just... deal with it. Unless it moves.

Id also never recommend handling in general, but I'll let someone else give that speech. Ill just say its not safe for you or the spider.

But seriously. If youre wanting to handle, say so now so people can at least recommend more handleable species.

P.S. Do NOT cuddle tarantulas. You will be itchy and probably squish it.
P.S.S. They do not have to kick the hairs off for them to make you itchy. If you pet them, you will itch.

I thought they had to have some level of docility since I saw a fair amount of images on Google of people handling them. Thought people wouldn't handle something that's very defensive (or food aggressive in this case) especially if it's a lot of different people.

I don't really plan on handling it that often, maybe a few days after I just bought it I'll handle it once (if it's not defensive) and then after the next couple months I probably won't handle it again until I have to clean its enclosure or to take a nice picture of it and even if I do handle it, i most likely won't handle it any longer than about 5 minutes (unless I'm trying to take a good picture of it). Would be nice if it was completely handleable.

I checked out Euthalus but they're a bit too tiny for my taste, they're cute though lol

If anyone would like to add other more handleable species I'll be happy to hear them out. As long as they're easy to care for, have a low chance of flicking hairs (if at all), and isn't tiny.

Yea I was never really planning on petting/cuddling the tarantula, I figured those hairs would itch just as much as if it were kicked off on to me. Just wanted to have them move around on my hand.

Are you planning to handle your pet? We generally recommend against handling, as it provides no benefit to the tarantula but creates unnecessary risk of bites, injurious falls, or escapes. If you insist on handling, you will want a docile terrestrial. (But keep in mind that tarantulas can behave unpredictably, and it's always possible to end up with a tarantula that is more defensive than the average member of its species.)

If you are willing to forego handling Acanthoscurria geniculata would be another good choice. They get large (7"+) and have striking coloring. However, they think everything is food, including your fingers, so you will want to do all maintenance with tongs. (This is a good habit to develop regardless of what you keep.)

I would like to handle it, yes, but it's not that big of a deal if I shouldn't.

How bad is a bite from A. Geniculata? (Or any tarantula in general) I would imagine it's pretty painful.

I guess for now I won't be getting any Avics or any other arboreal T, especially if they're prone to jump.

So far my top choices are A. Geniculata and G. Pulchra. What's the cheapest I can find both of them both as slings and adults? How long would it take for either of them to reach full size? If it takes many years I may as well buy them as adults or sub adults.

I'll be going on a cruise next Friday, so hopefully right after I return I'll start making the terrarium. I'll try finding some cage designs in the mean time and see which would be best to make.

What exactly would I need for a either of these Ts (or any in general)? I know I need substrate (is coco husk and/or Eco earth good for either of the species?), hides, decorations (I know it's not necessarily needed, but I would like to make the tank as pretty as possible) and a little water bowl. Is there anything else they would need? I already have most of the tank materials (I have some wood for the outer borders for looks, silicone, a couple sheets of plexiglass, the tools needed to make ventilation holes and whole construction. I think all I need is a lock and key for it) I currently have about $210 to spare so I want to see if I can afford a setup sometime pretty soon.

 

[DerekG4]

Accidentally posted the same thing twice, ignore this.

 

[The Grym Reaper]

How bad is a bite from A. Geniculata?

Their venom is weak but if you get tagged by an adult then it'd be similar to getting stabbed with a pair of roofing nails. They're big, they have pretty large fangs and they don't pull their punches (so to speak).

How long would it take for either of them to reach full size?

I got my genic 15 months ago at around the 4" mark and it took her about 7 months (and 2 moults) to go from 4" to 6", her last moult was back in January so I reckon she could moult again before the year is out. I'd say you could be looking at around 3 years to go from sling to adult.

I'm not sure for G. pulchra as I don't own this species. G. iheringi and G. actaeon are the only really fast growers out of the genus that I know of, people say G. pulchripes grows fast but since mine hit 2" her growth rate is on par with my B. emilia (i.e. painfully slow lol), I think you could be looking at 5+ years to go from sling to adult for this one.

What exactly would I need for a either of these Ts (or any in general)? I know I need substrate (is coco husk and/or Eco earth good for either of the species?), hides, decorations (I know it's not necessarily needed, but I would like to make the tank as pretty as possible) and a little water bowl. Is there anything else they would need?

Substrate, a hide and a water dish (if you get a genic then go with a fairly large water dish) are the essentials, anything else is optional.

 

[JoshDM020]

I thought they had to have some level of docility since I saw a fair amount of images on Google of people handling them. Thought people wouldn't handle something that's very defensive (or food aggressive in this case) especially if it's a lot of different people.

I don't really plan on handling it that often, maybe a few days after I just bought it I'll handle it once (if it's not defensive) and then after the next couple months I probably won't handle it again until I have to clean its enclosure or to take a nice picture of it and even if I do handle it, i most likely won't handle it any longer than about 5 minutes (unless I'm trying to take a good picture of it). Would be nice if it was completely handleable.

I checked out Euthalus but they're a bit too tiny for my taste, they're cute though lol

If anyone would like to add other more handleable species I'll be happy to hear them out. As long as they're easy to care for, have a low chance of flicking hairs (if at all), and isn't tiny.

Yea I was never really planning on petting/cuddling the tarantula, I figured those hairs would itch just as much as if it were kicked off on to me. Just wanted to have them move around on my hand.


I would like to handle it, yes, but it's not that big of a deal if I shouldn't.

How bad is a bite from A. Geniculata? (Or any tarantula in general) I would imagine it's pretty painful.

I guess for now I won't be getting any Avics or any other arboreal T, especially if they're prone to jump.

So far my top choices are A. Geniculata and G. Pulchra. What's the cheapest I can find both of them both as slings and adults? How long would it take for either of them to reach full size? If it takes many years I may as well buy them as adults or sub adults.

I'll be going on a cruise next Friday, so hopefully right after I return I'll start making the terrarium. I'll try finding some cage designs in the mean time and see which would be best to make.

What exactly would I need for a either of these Ts (or any in general)? I know I need substrate (is coco husk and/or Eco earth good for either of the species?), hides, decorations (I know it's not necessarily needed, but I would like to make the tank as pretty as possible) and a little water bowl. Is there anything else they would need? I already have most of the tank materials (I have some wood for the outer borders for looks, silicone, a couple sheets of plexiglass, the tools needed to make ventilation holes and whole construction. I think all I need is a lock and key for it) I currently have about $210 to spare so I want to see if I can afford a setup sometime pretty soon.

There are also pictures of people handling OBTs. Just because theres a picture/video of it does NOT mean its smart. Gryms right about the fangs. They get large.
Generally handleable species would probably include the G. pulchripes, G. rosea/porteri (unless its a psycho rosie), some of the Brachypelma are occasionally handleable. There are some Aphonopelma.
Im not gonna lie, though, i hardly pay attention to handleability because, as mentioned, handling is very much not recommended. So someone else will probably be able to help more with that.

 

[DerekG4]

Their venom is weak but if you get tagged by an adult then it'd be similar to getting stabbed with a pair of roofing nails. They're big, they have pretty large fangs and they don't pull their punches (so to speak).

Well sh*t, now I definitely wouldn't want to handle it, or at least not piss it off if it's near my hand haha.

I got my genic 15 months ago at around the 4" mark and it took her about 7 months (and 2 moults) to go from 4" to 6", her last moult was back in January so I reckon she could moult again before the year is out. I'd say you could be looking at around 3 years to go from sling to adult.

I'm not sure for G. pulchra as I don't own this species. G. iheringi and G. actaeon are the only really fast growers out of the genus that I know of, people say G. pulchripes grows fast but since mine hit 2" her growth rate is on par with my B. emilia (i.e. painfully slow lol), I think you could be looking at 5+ years to go from sling to adult for this one.

Yea I think I'll rather spend a little extra money than to wait it out to grow. I checked out on a quick website that a Genic around 1 3/4" - 2" is about $65, where as a 1/2" - 3/4" Pulchra is also $65 - $70, so I guess Pulchras are either slower growers than a Genic or Pulchras are harder to breed or are rarer or something. I'm pretty sure it's just a slower grower though.

There are also pictures of people handling OBTs. Just because theres a picture/video of it does NOT mean its smart. Gryms right about the fangs. They get large.
Generally handleable species would probably include the G. pulchripes, G. rosea/porteri (unless its a psycho rosie), some of the Brachypelma are occasionally handleable. There are some Aphonopelma.
Im not gonna lie, though, i hardly pay attention to handleability because, as mentioned, handling is very much not recommended. So someone else will probably be able to help more with that.

Yea now that I see the damage it can cause I'm highly likely not even gonna poke it with a brush.

G. Rosea was the first T I've seen up close and handled. I handled one at an animal place here in Homestead, Fl. It's what got me into owning an invert now. When I handled it that day I figured most Ts had an attitude same as that one(I see now that's definitely not correct). Although it being handleable I didn't like it too much, I personally don't like Roseas that much, a little too colorless for my taste, as fun as it was briefly carrying it though.

I'll check out Aphonopelma now

 

[DerekG4]

Accidentally double posted again, ignore this as well (I wish I could delete my own posts)

 

[DerekG4]

Ignore this again (I hate my phone's internet...)

 

[The Grym Reaper]

Well sh*t, now I definitely wouldn't want to handle it, or at least not piss it off if it's near my hand haha.

My girl isn't even fully grown and I wouldn't put my hands near her if you paid me.

She's actually pretty chill once she realises something isn't food but, yeah, sod that.

I checked out on a quick website that a Genic around 1 3/4" - 2" is about $65, where as a 1/2" - 3/4" Pulchra is also $65 - $70

Jheeze, I'd love to be a breeder over on your side of the pond, at the time I paid £35 ($47.54) for a 4" confirmed female A. geniculata, an adult female G. pulchra is £80 ($108) tops here

so I guess Pulchras are either slower growers than a Genic or Pulchras are harder to breed or are rarer or something. I'm pretty sure it's just a slower grower though.

They're very slow growers and there is a large demand for juvies/subadults/adults.

 

[DerekG4]

My girl isn't even fully grown and I wouldn't put my hands near her if you paid me.

She's actually pretty chill once she realises something isn't food but, yeah, sod that.

I suppose if I do somehow handle my future T now, I'll have to wait and check out the behavior of it first and see how it reacts and how it moves when defensive/food aggressive, etcetera. Closest thing I know to invert behavior is the spiders (red spiny orb weavers, daddy long legs, and jumping spiders) I handle in my backyard (which has also helped me completely get rid of my somewhat minor fear of arachnids and most insects, except roaches. I hate roaches lol) and see how they act when disturbed or near a person.

Jheeze, I'd love to be a breeder over on your side of the pond, at the time I paid £35 ($47.54) for a 4" confirmed female A. geniculata, an adult female G. pulchra is £80 ($108) tops here

I'm just hoping now the website I happened to check out was a bit over priced. I'll check out other websites now and possible breeders near me. Hopefully maybe at expos they're much cheaper as well. Just checked out a local wholesale that has them. They have 4" specimens at $48. If that's wholesale price then I assume people who have it in shops or buy from them are selling it for double the price, if not more.

They're very slow growers and there is a large demand for juvies/subadults/adults.

I think I'll rather buy a sub adult than a sling or whatever larger size that's available that's under $150. I'm patient but I'm highly impatient when it comes to waiting out an animal's full size.

By the way I checked out some Aphonopelma on Google images, theres quite a couple that I like. I like A. Anax, A. Marxi, A. Chalcodes, A. Crinitum, A. Mooreae, A. Seemanni, A. Iodius, A. Pallidum, and A. Hentzi. I haven't seen anything about them other than the colors they have, but out of just seeing their colors, I like best Mooreae, Anax, Pallidum, Hentzi, and Crinitum. If you guys have any experience, advice on these , or know if they fit my criteria please let me know. From the quick pictures I saw on google, most of them seem to be desert dwelling, which I assume means they hardly need any humidity. I'd prefer a forest or jungle T but I don't mind a desert dwelling T. A tank with a naturalistic desert look would be nice.

 

[Tim Benzedrine]

I created an A. genic bite report thread here once...

 

[Ungoliant]

Yea I think I'll rather spend a little extra money than to wait it out to grow. I checked out on a quick website that a Genic around 1 3/4" - 2" is about $65, where as a 1/2" - 3/4" Pulchra is also $65 - $70, so I guess Pulchras are either slower growers than a Genic or Pulchras are harder to breed or are rarer or something. I'm pretty sure it's just a slower grower though.

Acanthoscurria geniculata is affordable, easy to find, and grows at a decent rate.

Grammostola pulchra is a slow grower, easily the slowest of the tarantulas I have kept. It can be hard to find, and even the slings command a premium. (Maybe it's harder to breed or produces fewer slings per sack.)

If you want something you might be able to handle one day, Grammostola pulchra is a great fit. Mine have never shown defensive behavior. (One is bold and docile, and the other is reclusive.) I don't handle them, but I think Bulldozer would be pretty calm.

By the way I checked out some Aphonopelma on Google images, theres quite a couple that I like. I like A. Anax, A. Marxi, A. Chalcodes, A. Crinitum, A. Mooreae, A. Seemanni, A. Iodius, A. Pallidum, and A. Hentzi. I haven't seen anything about them other than the colors they have, but out of just seeing their colors, I like best Mooreae, Anax, Pallidum, Hentzi, and Crinitum.

There are some docile species of Aphonopelma if you like the look of them. The desert species tend to be slow growers, so you may want to pay extra for a juvenile instead of a tiny sling.

I'll let someone who has kept those species comment on temperament.

 

[The Grym Reaper]

By the way I checked out some Aphonopelma on Google images, theres quite a couple that I like. I like A. Anax, A. Marxi, A. Chalcodes, A. Crinitum, A. Mooreae, A. Seemanni, A. Iodius, A. Pallidum, and A. Hentzi.

I have A. chalcodes, mine is a little skittish (she'll briskly walk back to her burrow when disturbed but she's never kicked hairs or given me a threat posture) but generally docile otherwise, mine seems to have a decent appetite despite their alleged fasting tendencies, just keep them on deepish dry substrate (mine has excavated a bit) with a hide and water dish, feed around once a fortnight and you're good.

Gratuitous pic of Ashrah, my adult female.
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[Tim Benzedrine]

The only one of my small group that I would handle with anything resembling confidence would be my G. pulchripes. And it is still a juvie. But thus far, I've yet to see it throw a threat-pose, and cannot remember ever seeing it kick hairs. When I prod it to move a bit so I can fill its water container or perform some other type of maintenance, it is no issue. I still won't handle it unless circumstances dictate it to be a real necessity but I wouldn't be afraid to. I still don't consider it to be zero-risk however, to myself or the spider.
My B. hamorii (also a juvie) has flicked hairs on occasion, but if I had to, I'd pick her up as well. But with a bit less confidence as she is a little more skittish, so I could see something going wrong in some manner. The LP and genic, I wouldn't attempt to pick up except in the direst of emergencies and I'd still try to figure a way around it if I could.

 

[JoshDM020]

A. hentzi is pretty chill. Theyre all over my yard in Arkansas. The only thing is, they grow INSANELY slow. Ive forgotten his name again, but someone had a sling that took 7 years to hit 3 inches. So. Get a juvie/adult if you get one of those.