Behind the scenes of TCA Exotics Enclosure Fabrication!

What kind of units would you like to see TCA create next?

  • Polycarbonate units.

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    17

Ibzayalexander

Arachnosquire
Old Timer
Joined
Jan 28, 2012
Messages
64
Greetings everyone. I thought it would be cool to share some pictures of some of our mass production prefabrication, & shipments. Since the launch of our first line of enclosures, we've received a tremendous amount of positive feedback & support; it has kept us going. I am humbled, & honored to share some of our newest designs that will be hitting the market at the most competitive prices ever seen. These pictures contain samples & prototypes of the models to come. Cheers!

TCA Exotics,
(̾●̮̮̃̾•̃̾)۶Zay Alexander (̾●̮̮̃̾•̃̾)۶

1919065_10153268986991960_131277162636912338_n.jpg 12524215_10153268986811960_315088252244357664_n.jpg 12645046_10153268987086960_5755726636309907321_n.jpg 12654189_10153268986961960_6574194022005328582_n.jpg 12654281_10153268986886960_2196524344117649003_n.jpg 99F15913DA7AE5C0BB8D6362205895FE0D332AA54366C69B5Epimgpsh_fullsize_distr.jpg A642545C12E02494D54FA264454D5CD3307A3B9055CE5889C2pimgpsh_fullsize_distr.jpg 78803DE218450600A9101A8F5E4790793A0AA7332D93D04D40pimgpsh_fullsize_distr.jpg
 

Sam_Peanuts

Arachnobaron
Joined
Apr 21, 2010
Messages
408
Nice enclosures. I'm personally not a fan of those latches though, I prefer something that doesn't require an extra part to properly hold in place.

BTW, is there somewhere we can see your stuff that doesn't require a facebook subscription?
 

Ibzayalexander

Arachnosquire
Old Timer
Joined
Jan 28, 2012
Messages
64
Nice enclosures. I'm personally not a fan of those latches though, I prefer something that doesn't require an extra part to properly hold in place.

BTW, is there somewhere we can see your stuff that doesn't require a facebook subscription?
Thank you. We chose to use acrylic hasps, because it is the most user friendly method of securing or un-securing a unit; & while that statement may seem subjective, our experience in the fabrication of these units using other opening methods, be it: camlock mechanisms, sliding magnetized doors, puzzled connection pieces etc., all received the tail end of inquiries; purely based off of the fact that they were not as simple to use.

Our webpage is currently under construction, & will be up and running in a few months. For now, our Facebook classifieds is the best way to get in touch with us & place an order; if you're not already doing so via arachnoboards. If you check here we have an ad available in conjunction with pictures of our top selling models. We even do custom fabrication anyway you'd like.

Is there a particular style of unit that peaks your interest? , or something that you have in mind that has not been created in the realm of invert housing. What kind of products would you like to see?
 
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Sam_Peanuts

Arachnobaron
Joined
Apr 21, 2010
Messages
408
Personally, I'm a fan of using a rotating tab(one on each side since I had an escapee when only using one in the middle) of some kind that goes over the door to keep it in place. It's extremely easy to use and doesn't require an extra piece to hold properly in place.
Hasps are probably a better choice to use for people in general since many people wish to lock them so other people can't open them.

Thanks for the AB link. I'm assuming shipping to Canada wouldn't be cheap(and USPS instead of fedex would be a better alternative since the duty cost are much lower with them) so I doubt I'll be buying from you guys, but I like seeing what's available.

I'm personally interested in the vertical enclosures since I'm going to need some in the near future for arboreal tarantulas and those are the ones that are harder to find a decent cheap alternative for.
Your design is pretty good, but there's 3 things I'd prefer to be done differently(you mentioned that ):

- Using drilled holes instead of the round vents since it's safer(not sure if that's currently available, I've only seen one that way in your pics). I don't know if they make these vents stronger than they were in the past, but I've seen at least one picture of a tarantula that chewed one up enough that it could escape through it years ago and I've seen some of mine trying to chew up screen tops when I was still using those so I don't have a lot of faith in them.

-Having the ventilation front to back instead of left to right side also seem like a better idea since people will likely put them side by side on a shelf if they have a few(which is certainly my case) so that will restrict ventilation quite a bit unless they're properly spaced out which is a problem for bigger collections.
The downside is that it does restrict the view from the front a bit since it won't be mostly a solid piece of acrylic anymore.

-Having the door go all the way up to the top. The problem with the piece at the top with the current design is that you can't put a long piece of rounded cork inside since you're blocked both at the bottom and the top. If there's only the bottom there and the rest is a door, you can put any length of it, even one that goes all the way to the top.
The downside is that if the tarantula webs the top like Avicularia like to do, you'll be destroying their webs any time, but for the many species that won't do that, I feel being able to put a longer piece of cork is better.
Having a removable(or some way to get it out of the way) piece at the top of the front would be the best of both worlds but it would increase the complexity of the enclosure and be harder to keep it secure.
 
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Ibzayalexander

Arachnosquire
Old Timer
Joined
Jan 28, 2012
Messages
64
Personally, I'm a fan of using a rotating tab(one on each side since I had an escapee when only using one in the middle) of some kind that goes over the door to keep it in place. It's extremely easy to use and doesn't require an extra piece to hold properly in place.
Hasps are probably a better choice to use for people in general since many people wish to lock them so other people can't open them.

Thanks for the AB link. I'm assuming shipping to Canada wouldn't be cheap(and USPS instead of fedex would be a better alternative since the duty cost are much lower with them) so I doubt I'll be buying from you guys, but I like seeing what's available.

I'm personally interested in the vertical enclosures since I'm going to need some in the near future for arboreals and those are the ones that are harder to find a decent cheap alternative for.
Your design is pretty good, but there's 3 things I'd prefer to be done differently(you mentioned that ):

- Using drilled holes instead of the round vents since it's safer(not sure if that's currently available, I've only seen one that way in your pics). I don't know if they make these stronger than they were in the past, but I've seen at least one picture of a tarantula that chewed one up enough that it could escape through it years ago and I've seen some of mine trying to chew up screen tops when I was still using those so I don't have a lot of faith in them.

-Having the ventilation front to back instead of left to right side also seem like a better idea since people will likely put them side to side on a shelf if they have a few(which is certainly my case) so that will restrict ventilation quite a bit unless they're properly spaced out which is a problem for bigger collections.
The downside is that it does restrict the view from the front a bit since it won't be mostly a solid piece of acrylic anymore.

-Having the door go all the way up to the top. The problem with the piece at the top with the current design is that you can't put a long piece of rounded cork inside since you're blocked both at the bottom and the top. If there's only the bottom there and the rest is a door, you can put any length of it, even one that goes all the way to the top.
The downside is that if the tarantula webs the top like Avicularia like to do, you'll be destroying their webs any time, but for the many species that won't do that, I feel being able to put a longer piece of cork is better.
Having a removable(or some way to get it out of the way) piece at the top of the front would be the best of both worlds but it would increase the complexity of the enclosure and be harder to keep it secure.
I'm in agreeance with many of the design points you have made. Very great points indeed. The soffit louvers that are used tend to be more for esthetics than anything. There are many forms of ventilation that we use; it just happens that soffit louvers are the best seller. We also manufacture units with screening & 1/4" holes, as seen in one of the pictures. The last point you made stuck out most to me. The design for 8x8x16 unit with the double reservoir is geared towards the beginning enthusiasts. It can be either arboreal or terrestrial which is one of the reasons for the double reservoirs. Most of our consumers tend to be beginners looking to get a new enclosure that is esthetically pleasing to the eye. We designed this unit with double 3" reservoirs to insure that escapees have a harder time making it out of the unit. It acts as a shield in a way. It has worked dampening the possibility of bites and escapees; just an idea that happened to work like a charm. I've found in experimentation that most specimens have tendency to run up and out of a unit than down and out. I can't count how many times the upper reservoir has actually worked. I totally understand what you're saying in regards to decor. Our mark 2 version of this enclosure will load from the top so that it is easier to do maintenance, & place in larger decor. For now with this particular model, the only way to place in a large piece of cork/hide, is to do it while the unit is empty. That provides ample amount of room to wiggle in some nice pieces.
 

viper69

ArachnoGod
Old Timer
Joined
Dec 8, 2006
Messages
17,926
Hi Ibzy,

Raoul speaks highly of you being the big Avic breeder that he is! Anyway, I agree with Sam Peanuts. I'm also not a fan of the screen mesh. I THINK that design got popular in part because Rob on YouTube showed people how to make them. I could be wrong in that, but his video I'm sure contributed to the popularity.

INSTEAD of using a hole-saw for a the screen vent, I'd much rather see you use acrylic that has drilled holes. That's what I do for small AMAC boxes. It's cleaner looking and it is safer because Ts can chew through screen. On a side note, you will have to figure out what's the best size hole to use otherwise you will be drilling holes of different sizes for each customer. As each of us has different size Ts as you certainly know.

I'm encouraged to see a different vendor w/these material I'm hoping this will drop prices a bit. I know someone who works w/this material and he's amazed at how much the boxes go for in this hobby hahaha.

If you can have drilled holes, I'd be interested instead of screen vents.

ALSO, if you design partitioned container would you PLEASE PLEASE give each T it's own lid!! I've seem partitioned setups have one lid for all the Ts, and that's the dumbest idea I've seen so far.
 

viper69

ArachnoGod
Old Timer
Joined
Dec 8, 2006
Messages
17,926
-Having the door go all the way up to the top.
Bad for Avics like Sam said. Personally I like Acrylics containers that are symmeterical like Jamie's Tarantulas for one main reason: I can use them for Avics/arboreal OR I can lay the container down the long way, and use it for a terrestrial! That's really what I want.
 

Ibzayalexander

Arachnosquire
Old Timer
Joined
Jan 28, 2012
Messages
64
Hi Ibzy,

Raoul speaks highly of you being the big Avic breeder that he is! Anyway, I agree with Sam Peanuts. I'm also not a fan of the screen mesh. I THINK that design got popular in part because Rob on YouTube showed people how to make them. I could be wrong in that, but his video I'm sure contributed to the popularity.

INSTEAD of using a hole-saw for a the screen vent, I'd much rather see you use acrylic that has drilled holes. That's what I do for small AMAC boxes. It's cleaner looking and it is safer because Ts can chew through screen. On a side note, you will have to figure out what's the best size hole to use otherwise you will be drilling holes of different sizes for each customer. As each of us has different size Ts as you certainly know.

I'm encouraged to see a different vendor w/these material I'm hoping this will drop prices a bit. I know someone who works w/this material and he's amazed at how much the boxes go for in this hobby hahaha.

If you can have drilled holes, I'd be interested instead of screen vents.

ALSO, if you design partitioned container would you PLEASE PLEASE give each T it's own lid!! I've seem partitioned setups have one lid for all the Ts, and that's the dumbest idea I've seen so far.
Thank you! Roy is definitely my brother from another mother! I've found that 1/4" hole size is best for juvie & plus size specimens. Custom fabrication is definitely possible, if you have a design in mind we can certainly get the job done.

As for the partitioned units, we plan to make them so that each enclosure within the unit will have it's own lid. We will be carrying front loaders & top loaders of these units. It seems that most enthusiast have taken a disliking to the idea of using the soffit louvers for ventilation. I personally love the esthetic look they provide, I've never been a fan of the holes. I once had a T break the tip of it's fang trying to bite through a 1/4" hole. I think thats something that is a risk either way. If they can get a fang through it, & they actually try it, then there is the potential risk of damage to both the T & the unit. It's kind of inevitable. If they specimen is going to do it, it's going to do it. In my endeavors to create the safest units possible, I'm going to try and find solutions that will keep specimens from biting through the aluminum louvers & drill holes. We've developed a few potential candidate ideas for the reduction of specimens chewing through the units with out the success of damaging the unit or harming themselves. We've never had these issues, but that fact that there is a potential of it happening in conjunction with the risks that come along, give us grounds to eliminate anything them. Good points made indeed my friend.
 

viper69

ArachnoGod
Old Timer
Joined
Dec 8, 2006
Messages
17,926
Thank you! Roy is definitely my brother from another mother!
He said the same about you too! He's a great guy. I need to contact him and see if he's interested in my male versi. It's quite gorgeous, full of purple.

I agree on T behavior, well said. As I tell Raoul, I sure wish I lived in his locality, it would be so cool to hang out and talk Ts and Containers. I'm optimistic about your container endeavors.
 

Sam_Peanuts

Arachnobaron
Joined
Apr 21, 2010
Messages
408
I'm in agreeance with many of the design points you have made. Very great points indeed. The soffit louvers that are used tend to be more for esthetics than anything. There are many forms of ventilation that we use; it just happens that soffit louvers are the best seller. We also manufacture units with screening & 1/4" holes, as seen in one of the pictures. The last point you made stuck out most to me. The design for 8x8x16 unit with the double reservoir is geared towards the beginning enthusiasts. It can be either arboreal or terrestrial which is one of the reasons for the double reservoirs. Most of our consumers tend to be beginners looking to get a new enclosure that is esthetically pleasing to the eye. We designed this unit with double 3" reservoirs to insure that escapees have a harder time making it out of the unit. It acts as a shield in a way. It has worked dampening the possibility of bites and escapees; just an idea that happened to work like a charm. I've found in experimentation that most specimens have tendency to run up and out of a unit than down and out. I can't count how many times the upper reservoir has actually worked. I totally understand what you're saying in regards to decor. Our mark 2 version of this enclosure will load from the top so that it is easier to do maintenance, & place in larger decor. For now with this particular model, the only way to place in a large piece of cork/hide, is to do it while the unit is empty. That provides ample amount of room to wiggle in some nice pieces.
I have to say I didn't consider the escape possibility since it's usually not something I'm worried about. I have enough experience to tell if they'll likely try to run for it or if it's safe to open and do stuff and if they do escape, I can catch them without much difficulty, but I understand that's not the case for many people.

When you say mark 2 will load from the top, do you mean only from the top or will it also still open in the front? Personally, I prefer to do maintenance from the side since I mostly have OW arboreal tarantulas so I'd need much longer tongs to pick stuff up on the ground without having to put my hand in or close to the enclosure and since they usually reside in a cork tube near the top, that's not some place I want my hand to be close to. Also, as you said, they tend to escape from the top.
 

viper69

ArachnoGod
Old Timer
Joined
Dec 8, 2006
Messages
17,926
I find it's easier to pull my hand out faster from a horizontal position from front opening doors, as opposed to reaching and going down vertically too.

The one reason I love ExoTerra's is the front opening doors. You don't need to open the entire front in order to access the inside for certain things. For example, I strategically place the water dishes and other things I need access to in front of one door.

The less space they have to escape, the better off they are hah.

I haven't seen a double front door acrylic like ExoTerra yet.
 

viper69

ArachnoGod
Old Timer
Joined
Dec 8, 2006
Messages
17,926
Why make a frame when you can skip it entirely, it keeps cost down.
Good point! I think it's a good application of an interesting technology that has been around forever and is only just now getting into the hands of the layman.

I don't know the material costs in making either, do you? I'd be interested to know.
 

Sam_Peanuts

Arachnobaron
Joined
Apr 21, 2010
Messages
408
My 3D printer knowledge is a bit dated since I haven't looked into it in over a year. You can use different materiel so there are cheap ones and pricier ones, like anything in this world. There's also printers that require a specific format for the material used and other that can recycle it so that can change the price by quite a bit, depending on the printer used so it's hard to say exactly how much it'll cost.

As for the acrylic, it also depends on the thickness of the material and where you buy it. Around here, a 3mm(TCA use 4mm, but I don't have that available locally, it jumps to 5.6mm) 30"x60" is somewhere in the 40$ range if I'm not mistaken. I'm sure it could be bought for cheaper though in the US. I also can't find the stuff to bond it together, I have to try with aceton(which is a lot less powerful). The alternative, which I used in the past, is to use aquarium safe silicon which sells for about 5$ for a standard sized tube(290 ml).

Acrylic isn't that easy to cut the way you want so it's pretty hard to make something perfectly straight yourself. The frame helps hide that when you don't have the expertise so that's one reason to use one, but I doubt TCA has that problem.
 

advan

oOOo
Staff member
Joined
Apr 11, 2010
Messages
2,086
Considering you moved your operation to Asia to keep costs down, you could at least give them a heater. ;)

I'd like to see some special burrower enclosures. Something like 12"l x 6"w x 16" h with holes all around the very top and very bottom(not in the middle or lid).
 

Ibzayalexander

Arachnosquire
Old Timer
Joined
Jan 28, 2012
Messages
64
I have to say I didn't consider the escape possibility since it's usually not something I'm worried about. I have enough experience to tell if they'll likely try to run for it or if it's safe to open and do stuff and if they do escape, I can catch them without much difficulty, but I understand that's not the case for many people.

When you say mark 2 will load from the top, do you mean only from the top or will it also still open in the front? Personally, I prefer to do maintenance from the side since I mostly have OW arboreal tarantulas so I'd need much longer tongs to pick stuff up on the ground without having to put my hand in or close to the enclosure and since they usually reside in a cork tube near the top, that's not some place I want my hand to be close to. Also, as you said, they tend to escape from the top.
Mark 2 essentially means that the unit will open from the top & front; thus making space to add additional decorative esthetics. This will also induce the luxury of multitimbral maintenance. :astronaut::D
 

Ibzayalexander

Arachnosquire
Old Timer
Joined
Jan 28, 2012
Messages
64
Considering you moved your operation to Asia to keep costs down, you could at least give them a heater. ;)

I'd like to see some special burrower enclosures. Something like 12"l x 6"w x 16" h with holes all around the very top and very bottom(not in the middle or lid).
A heater is an interesting idea. However, a heater in conjunction with acrylic could cause a bit of bowing and warping within the material, but I like this idea a lot. Maybe abs or polycarbonate for the base would eliminate this? . . Hmm, I'll definitely be putting some thought into this design. I actually have a burrowing design that is significantly different in design, but serves the same purpose as you mentioned for burrowing. It is a 7"x10"x12". It's one of my best sellers. Good call! ;):)
 

Steve123

Arachnosquire
Arachnosupporter +
Joined
Sep 19, 2013
Messages
87
I vote no to all of the above, lol. Those people are working in winter coats! I think that means no heating. We have a 360 billion dollar trade deficit with China and the government devalues their currency to keep prices down. Have you seen the wages for unskilled labor there? Two documentaries: $0.40 and $.50 per hour. 70% of the country has no health insurance. These workers are more than likely part of the migrant worker population there.

I can’t control where my microwave or computer come from (all from China or with 95% Chinese parts), but at least with enclosures I can stay American and pay Ed at Lorex Plastics rather than increase the trade deficit.
 
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