B. Smithi behavior after molt

[Luke LeMire]

Quick rundown: I purchased a large B. Smithi “sling” (1.75” inches) in premolt. Brought it home and it molted the first night I had it. I kept it in the same enclosure in which it was purchased (clear baseball display case) ... I added an overfilled water bottle cap, filled to the top to hydrate and keep the humidity high during the molt and also dampened the substrate. It did not have any sort of water dish when I purchased it and the substrate was relatively dry so I felt a higher humidity and a water source was crucial. Since the molt, my Smithi has been clung to the side of the enclosure and has not moved...a clear sign humidity levels are too high. Will my now 2” B. Smithi be okay for the next 4-5 days in high humidity until it is safe to rehouse? I did add a layer of dry eco earth to the top of the wet substrate for it to stay on, but it is still staying on the wall of the enclosure. The ventilation of this enclosure is poor.. Only holes on the top (4 small holes in the corners and one larger hole in the center)...How can I lower humidity levels while not disturbing my T in such a vulnerable state?

 

[Luke LeMire]

Also... it has been 2 and a half days since the molt and it has not had any water I have provided it. Suggestions?

 

[Luke LeMire]

Quick rundown: I purchased a large B. Smithi “sling” (1.75” inches) in premolt. Brought it home and it molted the first night I had it. I kept it in the same enclosure in which it was purchased (clear baseball display case) ... I added an overfilled water bottle cap, filled to the top to hydrate and keep the humidity high during the molt and also dampened the substrate. It did not have any sort of water dish when I purchased it and the substrate was relatively dry so I felt a higher humidity and a water source was crucial. Since the molt, my Smithi has been clung to the side of the enclosure and has not moved...a clear sign humidity levels are too high. Will my now 2” B. Smithi be okay for the next 4-5 days in high humidity until it is safe to rehouse? I did add a layer of dry eco earth to the top of the wet substrate for it to stay on, but it is still staying on the wall of the enclosure. The ventilation of this enclosure is poor.. Only holes on the top (4 small holes in the corners and one larger hole in the center)...How can I lower humidity levels while not disturbing my T in such a vulnerable state?

 

[Liquifin]

humidity is not really ideal for the Brachypelma genus unless it is a B. vagans or B. albopilosum. A B. smithi needs more of the dry enclosure rather than a humid/moist one. I would definitely add ventilation, because I do not see any at all, even if there is some I would add more. They're living creatures that need air to breathe. And the reason it is on the wall instead of the floor is because the substrate/enclosure set-up is not ideal for it. But T.'s normally do that when first adjusting to their new home sometimes. So I would add ventilation and just use dry coco fiber, that is well patted down with a water dish and a hide.

 

[cold blood]

when I purchased it and the substrate was relatively dry so I felt a higher humidity and a water source was crucial

You felt wrong...the seller had it right. Although you were correct in adding a water dish.

my Smithi has been clung to the side of the enclosure and has not moved...a clear sign humidity levels are too high.

Spot on, they do not like much moisture.

How can I lower humidity levels while not disturbing my T in such a vulnerable state?

You can start by ignoring the word "humidity"...its an irrelevant term for tarantulas...any t can be kept at any humidity. Where it plays is with ts requiring moisture....for them, high humidity means less water added to the substrate less often and low humidity means adding more water to the sub, more often. Any t can be kept at any ambient humidity level. Online care sheets are not good to follow...this focus on humidity and humidity numbers are the biggest cause of unwarranted difficulties for new keepers.

For yours though, it simply requires dry substrate...regardless of your ambient humidity.


Just wait it out...but you really will want to add more ventilation...when dry, its not as important, but when things are damp, low ventilation can create a death trap and a mold factory.

 

[boina]

You vastly overestimated the humidity needs of your spider. They rarely drink and a B. smithi (probably rather B. hamorii) enclosure should always be dry, even in premolt.

I felt a higher humidity and a water source was crucial.

Crucial for what? Molting? It's a myth that spiders need higher humidity to molt. They don't. A scrubland species, like B. smithi or hamorii will NOT appreciate moist substrate, ever.

If you are careful you can rehouse your spider right now as it is obviously able to walk and even climb. It definitely needs a bigger enclosure and it needs a dry enclosure - always dry.

 

[cold blood]

@Luke LeMire

Please do not start multiple threads on the same topic. The threads have been merged.