avicularia purpurea (purple pink toe tarantula) advices?

[Rogerpoco]

As much as I do wish I had the magic touch for handling,it was comforting when I first heard that there are keepers that handle for years and years,never intending to handle their T's.
I had thought,through my fear of losing one,mostly,that I was missing out/behind on a serious part of keeping,was glad to be wrong.

 

[viper69]

I have to admit for the few minutes I held my Chaco, feeling 8 individual legs moving is REALLY odd! I'm not sure if it's their leg movement or just 8 legs, because insects don't feel odd to me at all. If only Ts were as human tolerant as walking sticks and mantids.

 

[silentarantula]

It would be great if you would tell us what you have learned, that way we could correct anything that may be erroneous. Can't wait to read all of what you learned on this topic.

was out of town for past weekend. what i've understand that purpurea does have more death ratio compare to others and avics. they may be high-maintenance Ts. obviously not recommend to handling it.

to have better care, is recommend to have acrylic terrarium with cross-ventilation drilled holes. clean out the enclosure regularly but not removing webbing to prevent stressing Ts. humidity is not the really maintenance to be concern but remain moist (not too dry or too dampy).

i already got my first three slings of Ts, it's G. pulchripes. and i'm still want to add more Ts in my collection. i'm not in hurry to get purpurea, it may be soon or later depend on opportunities. i just will buy almost "any" T's upon opportunities/timing.

 

[viper69]

it may be soon or later depend on opportunities. i just will buy almost "any" T's upon opportunities/timing.

Well if you want to make sure the money you spend on Ts and potentially shipping doesn't go to waste, just make sure you continue to do a lot of research BEFORE you buy it, and ask questions. Seems like common sense, but it's not.

 

[Whitelightning777]

I got a Versicolor as my first T. I did put it into a larger enclosure, but this resulted in howls of protests.

I tried putting it into a smaller size enclosure, but this had a dangerous drawback. They are so fast that they escape every time you have to feed them. Since I was using the shower, with the curtains pulled out and the drain plugged, I would get her back without incident. All such incidents are LIFE threatening even if nothing happens!!

My sling we so small at 1/4" that I could only fed fruitflies at first.

What you need to happen is to get them to make a web. I rebuilt the larger enclosure, glued everything in place so it wouldn't shift or damage the T and the web.

As long as there is a full water dish half full at all times, it won't dehydrate.

Once I got a web from her, I was able to feed small crickets from the pet store to her even though they were slightly larger in size. In nature, spiders that web can't control the size of what gets trapped inside!!

They had to be partially disabled first. I put the crickets with a container that I use to physically move them. I put the crickets into the fridge for an hour to stun them. I remove the drumsticks, back legs and all legs from one side while the crickets are chilled using feeding tongs and tweezers, 2 legs one side left. Then back into the fridge to fully slow them down again.

After that, I simply drop them into the web. At first they don't move and my Versicolor ignores them. As they begin to warm up and begin to wiggle around, the feeding reflex kicks in and she effortlessly nails them and takes a day or two to fully eat them.

To solve the ventilation issue, I have a very very small fan positioned to gently blow air onto the enclosure into ventilation holes. If I see condensation, it stays on until the condensation goes away totally. Otherwise, it's just a few hours each day, off at night.

My T actually likes this and will position herself to feel the gentle breeze!! I have a ventilation hole directly over the water dish and use an eye dropper to fill it.

When feeding, I open the lid just wide enough for the tongs to drop the cricket into the web, no more no less!!

Since the web was compete, she hasn't tried to escape even once. In the larger enclosure before the web, she would run DOWN instead of up and out.

I also recommend doing lots of research. Watch at least 30 to 50 YouTube videos. Join at least 2 forums and form relationships with open minded people!!

Again, this setup caused much controversy here.

(Obviously, NEVER get tricked into giving away your T because someone plays head games with you--long story.)

A small USB fan costs $5 + the power to USB charger to run it. It's the same one you use to charge a cell phone, hardly going to send you to the poor house.

She has molted once and looks gorgeous. The web is absolutely beautiful and prevents anything, such as maybe a feeder that escaped, ants etc, from harming the T.

The enclosure I used was originally for my girlfriend's Mantis that died from a bad molt because it fell due to the log inside shifting by accident. Glue or Velcro everything so nothing can move!!

A T must be able to find food, protect itself, refrain from escaping when you try to feed it, molt and stay hydrated. Putting a drop of water into the web every day is also a good idea. As long as it can function, cage size doesn't matter!!

Repeat that 100 times if mentally traumatized. With intense therapy, you'll adapt!!

This setup doesn't take more then 5 minutes a day to maintain it. I also use a heat lamp to keep the temp at 80 degrees, which will minimize the vulnerable time as a sling. Use a voltage controller starting very low and gradually increasing!!

These are about $20 from Amazon, plus the cost of a heat lamp you can get anywhere. My lamp is on the higher shelf, which is a wire shelf that allows air and heat to move. The cage is lifted slightly to line it up with the mini fan. My scorpling cage is beside it.

After her first molt she got much bigger and took her first mealworm, chilled same way as crickets but fully intact. She now has a very fat butt and is very calm within the web. She hasn't left the web since she built it!!

Yes, this will upset many keepers far more then the T!! Here's pics. That's proof it works. Thanks YouTube!!

Each problem with these guys has a solution. I don't have your species and individuals differ. Overall, both animals have very similar requirements.

I'd also suggest not getting a 1/4" sling. Do one 3/4" or 1"+ instead.

 

[miss moxie]

@Whitelightning777

First things first: This thread is from last year. If OP has gotten their A. purpurea, they've likely had it longer than you've had your C. versicolor.

Stop passing off your misguided and hard-headed information as "good" advice. Your pictures aren't proof of anything but your denial. A set up works great until it doesn't. That could be with this T, it could be with the next C. versicolor or Avicularia relative you keep this way. You are so stubborn and your brand of care is dangerous to the poor new people who come in and actually want to learn proper Avicularia care; not some first time keeper's approximation of "nothing has gone wrong in two months so I know more than people who've been keeping them for years."

I really thought we'd never see you or your poor set ups again after your last temper tantrum. You're like a bad penny.

To anyone who is looking for ACTUAL advice on Avicularia, Caribena, or Ybyrapora, here is a good and detailed list of how to keep them. Courtesy of @Venom1080 who has kept a lot more of these tarantulas for a lot longer than WL777 here has. I'm keeping 10 C. versicolor slings pretty much the same way, though I overfill the water dish once a week to moisten some of the substrate rather than keeping it completely dry. They're in a 20 oz. container and not a single one of them has bolted out of the enclosure like WL777 has suggested they will DANGEROUSLY DO in small enclosures. Even though all of them have made their web at the very top of their enclosures. One has already molted for me, and several others are in pre molt. I've also got 4 Y. diversipes I'm keeping the same way, just in a bigger enclosure since they are just under 2" in size. No heat lamp, because heat lamps can be dangerous and are completely unnecessary if the room temperature where you keep your tarantulas stays at 70F+.

But go on. Tote this at proof of how we other keepers are in an uproar over your methods. I couldn't care less what you do, you've proven you want to learn the hard way. I'm not going to let other new people who don't know better see your advice and take it to heart however.

 

[Venom1080]

I got a Versicolor as my first T. I did put it into a larger enclosure, but this resulted in howls of protests.

I tried putting it into a smaller size enclosure, but this had a dangerous drawback. They are so fast that they escape every time you have to feed them. Since I was using the shower, with the curtains pulled out and the drain plugged, I would get her back without incident. All such incidents are LIFE threatening even if nothing happens!!

My sling we so small at 1/4" that I could only fed fruitflies at first.

What you need to happen is to get them to make a web. I rebuilt the larger enclosure, glued everything in place so it wouldn't shift or damage the T and the web.

As long as there is a full water dish half full at all times, it won't dehydrate.

Once I got a web from her, I was able to feed small crickets from the pet store to her even though they were slightly larger in size. In nature, spiders that web can't control the size of what gets trapped inside!!

They had to be partially disabled first. I put the crickets with a container that I use to physically move them. I put the crickets into the fridge for an hour to stun them. I remove the drumsticks, back legs and all legs from one side while the crickets are chilled using feeding tongs and tweezers, 2 legs one side left. Then back into the fridge to fully slow them down again.

After that, I simply drop them into the web. At first they don't move and my Versicolor ignores them. As they begin to warm up and begin to wiggle around, the feeding reflex kicks in and she effortlessly nails them and takes a day or two to fully eat them.

To solve the ventilation issue, I have a very very small fan positioned to gently blow air onto the enclosure into ventilation holes. If I see condensation, it stays on until the condensation goes away totally. Otherwise, it's just a few hours each day, off at night.

My T actually likes this and will position herself to feel the gentle breeze!! I have a ventilation hole directly over the water dish and use an eye dropper to fill it.

When feeding, I open the lid just wide enough for the tongs to drop the cricket into the web, no more no less!!

Since the web was compete, she hasn't tried to escape even once. In the larger enclosure before the web, she would run DOWN instead of up and out.

I also recommend doing lots of research. Watch at least 30 to 50 YouTube videos. Join at least 2 forums and form relationships with open minded people!!

Again, this setup caused much controversy here.

(Obviously, NEVER get tricked into giving away your T because someone plays head games with you--long story.)

A small USB fan costs $5 + the power to USB charger to run it. It's the same one you use to charge a cell phone, hardly going to send you to the poor house.

She has molted once and looks gorgeous. The web is absolutely beautiful and prevents anything, such as maybe a feeder that escaped, ants etc, from harming the T.

The enclosure I used was originally for my girlfriend's Mantis that died from a bad molt because it fell due to the log inside shifting by accident. Glue or Velcro everything so nothing can move!!

A T must be able to find food, protect itself, refrain from escaping when you try to feed it, molt and stay hydrated. Putting a drop of water into the web every day is also a good idea. As long as it can function, cage size doesn't matter!!

Repeat that 100 times if mentally traumatized. With intense therapy, you'll adapt!!

This setup doesn't take more then 5 minutes a day to maintain it. I also use a heat lamp to keep the temp at 80 degrees, which will minimize the vulnerable time as a sling. Use a voltage controller starting very low and gradually increasing!!

These are about $20 from Amazon, plus the cost of a heat lamp you can get anywhere. My lamp is on the higher shelf, which is a wire shelf that allows air and heat to move. The cage is lifted slightly to line it up with the mini fan. My scorpling cage is beside it.

After her first molt she got much bigger and took her first mealworm, chilled same way as crickets but fully intact. She now has a very fat butt and is very calm within the web. She hasn't left the web since she built it!!

Yes, this will upset many keepers far more then the T!! Here's pics. That's proof it works. Thanks YouTube!!

Each problem with these guys has a solution. I don't have your species and individuals differ. Overall, both animals have very similar requirements.

I'd also suggest not getting a 1/4" sling. Do one 3/4" or 1"+ instead. View attachment 251829 View attachment 251830 View attachment 251831 View attachment 251833 View attachment 251838 View attachment 251839

L.O.L.

 

[Whitelightning777]

I'm not denying that multiple configurations can be made to work. I'm just saying mine resulted in a healthy get growing sling.

Maybe it's a genetic mutant that'll survive where nothing else will, but I doubt it.

I still personally think keeping any lubing thing in an opaque or small enclosure when it can move very fast is a bad idea.

 

[Venom1080]

I still personally think keeping any lubing thing in an opaque or small enclosure when it can move very fast is a bad idea.

This statement bleeds ignorance.

 

[miss moxie]

I'm not denying that multiple configurations can be made to work. I'm just saying mine resulted in a healthy get growing sling.

Maybe it's a genetic mutant that'll survive where nothing else will, but I doubt it.

I still personally think keeping any lubing thing in an opaque or small enclosure when it can move very fast is a bad idea.

We see "healthy, growing" Avicularia/Caribena/Ybyrapora slings die here all the time.

When you raise 30 Avicularia slings in that very same way? Then you can pass your techniques off to new people. Until then, stop giving new people advice when it directly conflicts with the keeping style of people who HAVE raised a plethora of Avicularia slings for many years.

 

[Andrea82]

@Whitelightning777 your set up is way too barren and to big.
If the spider keeps escaping on you, every time you open its enclosure, you are doing something wrong.
Your advice sucks.

In addition to what @miss moxie posted about the info @Venom1080 posted for new keepers, this thread and post by @viper69 also has some great and direct info.
http://arachnoboards.com/threads/avicularia-husbandry.282549/#post-2461396

 

[Nightstalker47]

I got a Versicolor as my first T. I did put it into a larger enclosure, but this resulted in howls of protests.

I tried putting it into a smaller size enclosure, but this had a dangerous drawback. They are so fast that they escape every time you have to feed them. Since I was using the shower, with the curtains pulled out and the drain plugged, I would get her back without incident. All such incidents are LIFE threatening even if nothing happens!!

My sling we so small at 1/4" that I could only fed fruitflies at first.

What you need to happen is to get them to make a web. I rebuilt the larger enclosure, glued everything in place so it wouldn't shift or damage the T and the web.

As long as there is a full water dish half full at all times, it won't dehydrate.

Once I got a web from her, I was able to feed small crickets from the pet store to her even though they were slightly larger in size. In nature, spiders that web can't control the size of what gets trapped inside!!

They had to be partially disabled first. I put the crickets with a container that I use to physically move them. I put the crickets into the fridge for an hour to stun them. I remove the drumsticks, back legs and all legs from one side while the crickets are chilled using feeding tongs and tweezers, 2 legs one side left. Then back into the fridge to fully slow them down again.

After that, I simply drop them into the web. At first they don't move and my Versicolor ignores them. As they begin to warm up and begin to wiggle around, the feeding reflex kicks in and she effortlessly nails them and takes a day or two to fully eat them.

To solve the ventilation issue, I have a very very small fan positioned to gently blow air onto the enclosure into ventilation holes. If I see condensation, it stays on until the condensation goes away totally. Otherwise, it's just a few hours each day, off at night.

My T actually likes this and will position herself to feel the gentle breeze!! I have a ventilation hole directly over the water dish and use an eye dropper to fill it.

When feeding, I open the lid just wide enough for the tongs to drop the cricket into the web, no more no less!!

Since the web was compete, she hasn't tried to escape even once. In the larger enclosure before the web, she would run DOWN instead of up and out.

I also recommend doing lots of research. Watch at least 30 to 50 YouTube videos. Join at least 2 forums and form relationships with open minded people!!

Again, this setup caused much controversy here.

(Obviously, NEVER get tricked into giving away your T because someone plays head games with you--long story.)

A small USB fan costs $5 + the power to USB charger to run it. It's the same one you use to charge a cell phone, hardly going to send you to the poor house.

She has molted once and looks gorgeous. The web is absolutely beautiful and prevents anything, such as maybe a feeder that escaped, ants etc, from harming the T.

The enclosure I used was originally for my girlfriend's Mantis that died from a bad molt because it fell due to the log inside shifting by accident. Glue or Velcro everything so nothing can move!!

A T must be able to find food, protect itself, refrain from escaping when you try to feed it, molt and stay hydrated. Putting a drop of water into the web every day is also a good idea. As long as it can function, cage size doesn't matter!!

Repeat that 100 times if mentally traumatized. With intense therapy, you'll adapt!!

This setup doesn't take more then 5 minutes a day to maintain it. I also use a heat lamp to keep the temp at 80 degrees, which will minimize the vulnerable time as a sling. Use a voltage controller starting very low and gradually increasing!!

These are about $20 from Amazon, plus the cost of a heat lamp you can get anywhere. My lamp is on the higher shelf, which is a wire shelf that allows air and heat to move. The cage is lifted slightly to line it up with the mini fan. My scorpling cage is beside it.

After her first molt she got much bigger and took her first mealworm, chilled same way as crickets but fully intact. She now has a very fat butt and is very calm within the web. She hasn't left the web since she built it!!

Yes, this will upset many keepers far more then the T!! Here's pics. That's proof it works. Thanks YouTube!!

Each problem with these guys has a solution. I don't have your species and individuals differ. Overall, both animals have very similar requirements.

I'd also suggest not getting a 1/4" sling. Do one 3/4" or 1"+ instead. View attachment 251829 View attachment 251830 View attachment 251831 View attachment 251833 View attachment 251838 View attachment 251839

There shouldn't be a ventilation issue if you setup your enclosure properly. A lot of what your doing is pointless, start by ditching the heat lamp and fan. They are completely unnecessary and more likely to hinder your spider then anything else.

Basically your avic survived through it's first molt. I doubt it will do so well if you continue to keep it the way you have.

Please read up more on your Theraphosid before you offer advice, this hobby has already been plagued with enough misinformation over the years. Not trying to put you down man but your simply wrong, on multiple fronts.

 

[miss moxie]

In addition to what @miss moxie posted about the info @Venom1080 posted for new keepers, this thread and post by @viper69 also has some great and direct info.

*whispers* you forgot the link.

Please read up more on your Theraphosid before you offer advice, this hobby has already been plagued with enough misinformation over the years.

Watch youtube videos, he says. I can find plenty of youtube videos with information that is wrong and keepers who are just downright negligent. The best source of information is this forum and WL777 refuses to accept that.

 

[Whitelightning777]

Warmth and fresh air doesn't bother the spider. Why would it move towards it then?

When the fan and light are off at night or turned down and I run them in the day, I get a happy dance and the spider comes up to the top of the cage and hangs out closer to the heat source. Doesn't seem that stressful to me. If I turn the lamp up higher, the spider moves closer!!

A temp of 80 degrees likewise will not harm a tarantula, especially when you're trying to increase growth for it's own safety. I know no case of a tarantula dying because 80 is too hot. It's much hotter where they come from.

An enclosure that you can't work in without the spider running away is OBVIOUSLY dangerous to the spider and stressful. It wouldn't be running away unless it was annoyed. If the spider can't run down, the alternative is up...& out.

If it was a pokie or something else, it might also endanger the owner!!

Many OBT owners keep them in larger enclosures to minimize undesirable behavior, namely biting because the spider feels cornered.

If size decreases one type of undesirable behavior, why not others? That's where I got the idea from.

The enclosure is fine. The spider is fine. In fact, the spider barely even notices if I remove the lid. As long as I steer clear of the web, removing remains is uneventful.

My enclosure isn't all that different then some of the acrylic display boxes that others use, except those sometimes have screen vents and occasionally feeding ports in the top to drop in food without opening.

Turning on a $5 fan is less risky and less troublesome then rehousing or modding the enclosure for a third time.

The room temperature is only 68 degrees because that's where my roommate/renter/ex girlfriend keeps it at.

She also randomly smokes when I'm not there which is another reason that a fan helps.

 

[miss moxie]

You. Are. Wrong. And you're the worst sort of wrong person. You're the sort who justifies being wrong with incredibly flawed logic.

Of course your tarantula is drawn to heat. You've been told this before. They'll literally cook themselves.

My versicolor don't move when I open the enclosure either and I keep them completely different. You're not observing and proving anything earth-shattering and brilliant.

If you can't work in a small enclosure then that sounds more like a problem with your skills, and less like justification for a ridiculously over-sized enclosure.

 

[Whitelightning777]

*whispers* you forgot the link.



Watch youtube videos, he says. I can find plenty of youtube videos with information that is wrong and keepers who are just downright negligent. The best source of information is this forum and WL777 refuses to accept that.

If the video shows a dozen or more happy healthy spiders, why not? Yes some of them are cringe worthy.

& No, there is no such thing as one forum that is the "best" source of info on anything.

I'm sure if you keep the room temperature over 75, you may not need extra heat. My ex keeps the place at 68 degrees, and people are saying ditch the heat lamps!!


Really?

Is that the best source of info, really?

Problem is that the ex still lives with me, long dysfunctional story not socially acceptable here.

So, who's going to try to scam me out of my spiders.... again!!

Don't worry, they're fine.

 

[Whitelightning777]

I have a background in electronics and she biological lab experience in college. I also can take apart laptops and put them together again.

Fine motor control skills aren't the problem.

Again, show me where 80 degrees had killed off even one tarantula. Bear in mind, my ex still lives with me and keeps the temp at 68, middle age female issues etc.

So, for this critter from near the equatorial regions I ask one question. Is 68 degrees better then 80? Justify it.

 

[miss moxie]

If the video shows a dozen or more happy healthy spiders, why not? Yes some of them are cringe worthy.

I could go through these forums and find tons of healthy-looking Avicularia that are dead or dying. I can think of two off the top of my head. Nice, plump, colorful spiders who "spontaneously" die.

But you're not worth the effort. Because you'll keep saying they're fine until the cows come home.

I'm not here to change your keeping styles because people have already tried that and you refuse to listen. I'm here to let new keepers know that your brand of advice is grossly misinformed, borderline negligent, and just. plain. wrong.

 

[miss moxie]

So, for this critter from near the equatorial regions I ask one question. Is 68 degrees better then 80? Justify it.

Here is something you might respond to. Your favorite source for information.

 

[Whitelightning777]

Sounds like the cult disagrees. Oh well.

Again, justify keeping a tropical critter at 68 degrees.

Explain why ventilation from a fan is different from any other type. Bear in mind that zoos use incredibly complex life support systems for inverts.

Go to a pet store selling saltwater supplies. They make what I have look like nothing.

Yes, is I was almost hording 2 or 3 dozen animals, my set up would be too costly.

Oh, and she finally got through with the mealworm!! (Which matters more then the cult)