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Any of you guys have any experience with Dumeril boas?

Discussion in 'Not So Spineless Wonders' started by xBurntBytheSunx, Jul 19, 2018.

  1. xBurntBytheSunx

    xBurntBytheSunx Arachnoprince Old Timer

    I've been looking at different snake species and these seem pretty attractive. It looks like they need less humidity than most boas so that's a plus for me. I'm seeing different things about their temperament, so I guess that depends on the snake maybe.

    People are saying they aren't a good beginner snake, but not really saying why. I've only kept one snake before. What is your opinion on Dumerils? Would this be a bad species for someone who doesn't have a lot of experience to get?
  2. sschind

    sschind Arachnobaron Old Timer

    I've had three over the years and they have all been the most docile snakes I have ever owned. I've never done anything different with them than my other boas I have kept so I can't say for sure if they are any more difficult but I did notice they tend not to eat as much, especially when they get older. My red tails get fed and eat every week but the dumerils seem to like to take a week off fairly regularly so he only gets fed every other week now. As babies and juveniles they eat pretty well when ever but they do seem to slow down.

    Based on my personal experience I have not noticed anything that would keep me from recommending them.

    Just curious, what kind of snake did you have and who is saying they are not good beginner snakes?
    • Agree Agree x 1
  3. boina

    boina Lady of the mites Arachnosupporter

    Friends of mine had a dumerili baby years ago and that was a complete desaster but it might have been so bad because it was wild caught. The snake was extremely skittish and refused to eat - for a whole year. They used force feeding and when that didn't work even a feeding tube. In the end I got it to eat by serving life bio-mice, i.e. mice I bred myself in a natural habitat on grass and dirt. They moved and smelled different than you usual caged mice and the snake finally decided to eat that. After being involved with that I decided I'd never get a dumerili.

    Really?? My (adult) B. constrictors get fed every 6 to 8 weeks and the vet said they are more on the chubby side...
  4. The Snark

    The Snark هرج و مرج مهندس Old Timer

    I recently did a fly on the wall at CMU where a discussion of Squamata, sp snakes went on. Seems it would be worth researching. Essentially it came down to most predaceous animals are 'victims' of the environment they are in, essentially adapt themselves to a given environment or move, or experience die backs or over-population, but some constrictor snakes, especially the large ones, boas and pythons, wait it out. That is, wait until the environment suits their needs.
    @boina Gave an example with the boa that wouldn't eat. A study was done where it was conjectured these snakes live in a hibernative state constantly, rousing themselves periodically to check if prey and environs are suitable. The discussion got very complex at that point where calories and energy got involved. As best I could grasp, other animals enter hibernation at given times of the year, but these snakes are always in hibernation. This is exemplified by the larger pythons where moving their mass and weight requires more energy than they would gain by hunting in a prey sparse environment. IE wait it out, grab what prey happens along then go back into this torpor like state.
    If anyone could expand and expound upon this, I'd like to hear it. What transition if any do these snakes go through when they rouse themselves into a hunting mode? Do they even have a hunting mode or are they entirely opportunist? What are the metabolic differences between these torpored constrictors and more active snakes that hunt regularly?
    BTW, certain species of toads have the same perpetual torpor/arousal. One example mentioned by Dr. Stephanides was a pair of toads that had been encased in a wall an estimated 5 years. When the wall was ripped down and the toads released they immediately went about hunting without any apparent transition from the torpor.
    Last edited: Jul 19, 2018
    • Informative Informative x 2
  5. xBurntBytheSunx

    xBurntBytheSunx Arachnoprince Old Timer

    Ah that's interesting, I could see how a snake that feeds sporadically could be a lot more frustrating for a new snake owner, than one that eats well. What are you supposed to do with extra thawed mice? Nothing fun I'm sure lol
  6. The Snark

    The Snark هرج و مرج مهندس Old Timer

    I often think about the 'old man'. I seriously doubt he has moved more than 1 or 2 feet in the past 10 years. He is offered a rat about once a week which he usually ignores.

    That is 1/4 inch mesh if anyone wants to guesstimate his girth. Weight, >200 lbs. Length ~18 feet as of 2001.
    Last edited: Jul 19, 2018
    • Like Like x 1
  7. xBurntBytheSunx

    xBurntBytheSunx Arachnoprince Old Timer

    200 lbs damn! Maybe I'll pass on these lol Thanks for the info!
    • Funny Funny x 1
  8. sschind

    sschind Arachnobaron Old Timer

    For a novice I would certainly not recommend getting any snake as a hatchling or neonate. Best to get one from a reputable breeders several months old with established feeding patterns. Unfortunately some people don't wait for their snakes to begin feeding regularly before they dump them on some unsuspecting buyer. One mouse and its suddenly a great feeder or worse no mice and they flat out lie and say they are feeding. You don't have to spend top dollar but cheap snakes are usually cheap for a reason and not feeding is one of the maion reasons.

    As far as my boas go I have a 5 foot male and a 7 foot female albino and the male gets a large and the female gets a XXLrat a week but I get my rats from rodent pro so they are on the small side for the size and they barely put a lump in them. I buy my rodents in bulk and separate a weeks feeding for all my snakes and vacuum seal them. I just pull a bag out of the freezer the day before I plan to feed and put them in the frig to thaw a bit then a couple hours before I feed I pop the bag into a tote of hot water to completely thaw them and warm them up a bit. The only one I do separate is the Dumerils but the procedure is the same except its every other week.
    • Informative Informative x 1