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ABG Mix and bioactive tank for scorpion?

Discussion in 'Scorpions' started by Jeffrey Swei, Apr 16, 2018 at 12:56 PM.

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    I have 2 3i h. Swammerdami. I been asking for advise as this is my first scorpion and pet in general. Was recommended to do ABG mix and bioactive tank as coco fiber needs more maintenance. Thoughts and anyone with experience with bioactive Vivarium can you give advise?
     
  2. Whitelightning777

    Whitelightning777 Arachno-heretic Arachnosupporter

    Peat is more resistant to mold then coca fiber. I use that. My H spinifer is kept with frog moss in the enclosure to add humidity.

    You don't really need a bioactive vivarium to keep a high humidity scorpion successfully. Any plant fertilizer will kill an invert very quickly.

    Since these guys do dig burrows and they do tend to go on the occasional rampage in the cage throwing substrate all over the place and once in a while even flipping over hides and water dishes, adding any other plants with all the needs they require could prove to be more trouble then it's worth.

    If the scorp is pursuing a feeder such as a roach or earthworm which has burrowed, the havoc can be increased even further.

    Scorpions in that genus like it hot, within the 80 to 85 degree range, possibly even into the very low 90s. I wouldn't go over 90 for any reason however.

    Place the heating pad on one side of the enclosure, NEVER underneath the substrate if you use that. Heat lamps should be no closer then 8" away from the highest point the scorp can gain access to and should only warm one side of the cage, creating a hot side and a cold side. I can PM you a link on how to do that safely if you like since heating inverts is a controversial subject here.

    Scorps do NOT need extra lighting and UV or blacklights will chemically degrade the exoskeleton causing death. It is ok to use blacklights to briefly inspect the scorp but any light which causes them to glow is also degrading the exoskeleton. That sort of light source should be avoided for any extended period of time. They are nocturnal. Red heat lamps are not visible to them and can allow you to observe them more easily.

    Blacklights can be helpful when searching for an escaped scorpion. A sturdy lid is even more helpful and they are escape artists.

    Humidity should be over 50 % but need not exceed 70 percent. It isn't really that important so long as the water dish is checked daily and kept full at all times. Dehydration is the main hazard.

    They do need a large hide which will minimize digging or at least confine it to one corner of the enclosure. Coconut shells with an entrance cut in are ideal. The water dish should be large enough for the scorpion to totally submerge but shallow enough for it to walk out of easily and heavy enough to not be flipped over. Removing the water dish to clean it will be a frequent chore.

    Scorpions aren't quite as fast moving as tarantulas. I've noticed that both my H spinifer scorpling and the mother scorp are too slow to catch crickets. Hissing or Dubai roaches plus the occasional Earth worm serve much better as feeders.

    (My H spinifer was wild caught and pregnant. I kept one scorpling and found good homes for the others.)

    Obviously, they never should be handled. A paint brush and catch cup are your friend and they can't run up the walls.

    Full disclosure: I don't own that species but members of that genus have basically identical care requirements.

    Generally, it's best to keep it simple. These guys make great pets and will emerge on a regular basis.

    H spinifer thirsty 4.jpg

    The water dish you see here is her smaller one, not the main one I use.

    Scorp badass3a.jpg