2 general humidity questions

[Phases]

Hey all! I have a couple questions regarding keeping proper humidity. I realize species vary, but, in general:

1) Is it common practice to keep water dishes topped off, or let them get low then fill - and/or does that even matter? (as in, full at all times == more humidity benefit, or nah?)

and

2) screen lid vs acrylic. Obviously, screen is not preferred due to potential of claws getting stuck but that aside, when is each appropriate? Is it generally too hard to keep proper humidity with a screen lid, or is it easier because the air doesn't get stagnant and cause issues? I have some screen tops, and some acrylic that I've drilled holes into. All those only have a few. Maybe 15 holes (4 in each corner, four in middle, for example).

I question, though, how many holes are enough. Lots, to mimic a screen, or just a few. It seems All species you see for sale are in the same containers with a small hole every few inches, around the top of the side, and that's it. No variation based on species and humid/dry needs.

Just wanna hear some opinions if anyone wants to weigh in

 

[WeightedAbyss75]

For me, I just refill my water dishes whenever I notice. In my more humid enclosures, the water dish doesn't really evaporate anyway, so I just like to overflow those and refill any dishes that are empty. A full dish will sometimes make the difference in humidity, but usually it's more important to have moist sub.

As for screen vs acrylic, I prefer acrylic. It's just as you said, cages with all-screen lids let out humidity very fast. It would be very hard to keep Pamphobeteus species in those cages, especially when they can be torn up and can catch a T's tarsal claws. In acrylic lids, you can add however much ventillation you want, given you have a soldering iron. If you have a Brachy, then add a whole ton of ventillation holes to make sure it is dry. If you want a Megaphobema sp, then you can restrict the ventillation. To me, acrylic is just easier and safer for T's The amount of holes depend on the T. With humid sp, I usually do about 1/4 ventillation on each end of the top to get a moist/dry side. I can take pics, at school now

 

[Phases]

Interesting. So my guys that out to be more humid should have lids replaced, if screen - or (and until then) probably need to most substrate more often. Like, my C.versicolor.

 

[WeightedAbyss75]

I would say so As long as you get the sub moist down to the lowest levels, it should be fine with a screen. The only problem is when you have REALLY humid species that need,a ton of humidity. Also, if you want as a temporary fix, you could use a small piece of acrylic or something like that and partially cover the mesh. That way, it restricts the ventillation and helps to keep humidity

 

[Red Eunice]

1) Water dishes, in my case, always have water in them, to an extent, never dry. For Ts that require, to a degree, higher humidity, I've fewer vent holes and use topsoil w/h some vermiculite added. No mold issues so far.

2) Screen vents are usually frowned upon, but online vendors sell enclosures with them installed and people buy 'em. I've 2 tanks with screen tops, 1 C. lividus & 1 G. porteri, neither has gotten, to my knowledge, onto the screen. Lividus, 9+ years, is content staying in her burrow, I've maybe a handful of pics of her on the surface. Porteri, epitomizes "pet rock", I've had since '91, rarely if ever, climbs atop her piece of cork.

Everything else are in enclosures without any screen whatsoever. Better to have too many holes than not enough. Extra holes can be taped over, from the inside, or a dab of hot glue. Done without the T in the enclosure, of course.
I do have a server rack fan, on a variable timer, that simulates a breeze. Helps circulate the air for a more even room temp and all but eliminates stagnant air in the enclosures. Just an FYI.

 

[viper69]

No magic to the dishes. Their levels vary with my observation of the levels, ie varies hah, except when it gets pretty warm, ie dry by me, and it does. The Ts drink a lot more frequently once temps increase over 80. Sling get more consistency on water bowl filling.

Screen and Ts is never useful when compared to acrylic. I don't risk them getting caught in it after seeing it happen myself with my one of my arboreals.

 

[viper69]

I do have a server rack fan, on a variable timer, that simulates a breeze.

Or simulates a typhoon, depending upon the type of fan hah.

 

[The Snark]

Or simulates a typhoon, depending upon the type of fan hah.

I'm visualizing one of those 200CFM 'screamer' fans and a T battling it's way along, sliding backwards now and then, trying to get to the water dish.