When in premolt, they won't eat - they might drink though. Live things in their enclosure will cause added stress and the crickets can actually harm them.
I have 3 Brazilian salmon pinks. 1 molted almost 3 months ago. 2 are still waiting and in pre molt. they are all from the same sac, therefore are the same age. As they get older the longer it takes and temperature has a lot to do with it too. It is now "winter" in my basement - meaning that with...
I got my L.p's from someone who had ordered 4 and thought they had about 40. I agreed to take them all and had only to pay $40 shipping. When they arrived, after separating them, I found there were 106. Many I gave away, a few I was able to sell for about $10 each which covered my shipping fee...
I disagree. I've read that sometimes they don't molt for years until they go through the hemisphere shift, when normally they will molt yearly. And now that she has molted - having been through 1 unexpected egg sac - at least I won't have to endure another unless I choose to try to breed her.
I bought a mature red color form G. rosea female about 6 months ago. I had read about how difficult it can be to get them through the hemisphere shift so that they will molt an be on a "normal" cycle. Well, she finally molted over the weekend - of course I wasn't even home. Now I can relax.
Interesting. Is growth rate then determined by the species going from hatching to maturity? Of course heavy feeding can cause them to molt more frequently too possibly...hasn't seemed to help with my L. parahybanas. They still reach pre molt and then progress from there at their own rate.
Keep your substrate fairly moist - not all of it. That will keep humidity up and it won't need to drink as much9(which you probably wouldn't see anyway).
Your tarantula had sealed itself up, appeared to be upside down, and you SHOOK the container?! I'm assuming you must be brand new to the hobby and/or haven't done your homework. Please pick up a book or do some research, and don't harass your tarantula while it is OBVIOUSLY moulting. The...
I have raised several Brachypelmas B. boehmi is one of my faves. Mine molted almost monthly when young(I fed them well). They almost all will refuse food for at least a week after molting. Their fangs need to harden. I don't know what you all are on saying they'll wait a couple of days to eat...
My B. smithi was never aggressive, but she was a flicker, and those urticating setae are itchy. My B. emilia has never flicked which is nice - the only one of me New World T's to not do so.
I was on here last night, and I saw a posting by a lady who said she had ABG millipedes and showed babies and all. She said her largest was about 12". The very last posting to this thread said that she didn't have ABGs but , and I'm not certain of the name he gave was some sort of red leg, maybe...
It's not a good eater like some of the others. A lot of the others have molted or are preparing to molt. I'd like to find good homes for a bunch of them.
My B. albiceps just came out of her burrow after a month.URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/8/20110917143119418.jpg/][/URL]
Sweepstakes, your smith is just a little younger than mine.
I have a Lasiodora parahybana with odd coloration. I was hoping someone else might have an idea what it is. I thought it might be possible exuvium stuck to it. It moves fine, although it's not very courageous.
Hello there, why not take a few seconds to register on our forums and become part of the community? Just click here.
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.