Keep in mind that Narceus will coat their eggs with frass, so it's easy to throw away eggs with poo when you clean their enclosure. Once you become familiar with the visual difference between eggs and poo, you can spot eggs pretty easily. With that being said, you would have to inspect each...
I currently keep N.americanus, N.americanus Albino, and N.gordanus. My N.americanus and N.gordanus have bred and I have eggs and pedelings of each. It shouldn't be long and I will find N.americanus Albino eggs and pedelings, based on the size of the adults. I keep all three on the basic milli...
Millipedes are the perfect critter if you don't have time. If you set up the proper substrate and environment, they can be very hands-off and yet available anytime that you want to check them out. I recommend using a container that is either transparent, or at least translucent, on the bottom...
You may have to settle with keeping adult milli's as pets who don't breed. You are being given the parameters for having adults who are likely to mate and lay eggs. The composition of your substrate and the depth will not support pedelings. You can change and have a good chance of success at...
None of my bumblebee milli's have exceeded 3". And scarlets are probably the smallest millipede in the hobby. Both bumblebee and scarlet millipedes are easy to care for and breed, though. They also grow and mature relatively fast. I hope you enjoy keeping them. And there are a lot of cool larger...
Yes, a good layer of decaying wood and leaves on the top will offer a long-term food source and help retain substrate moisture, reducing the amount of times that water is added to the container.
---------- Post added 02-02-2014 at 09:40 PM ----------
I respectfully disagree, changing...
Adding decaying wood and leaves is always the right move when the previous decaying wood and leaves have been depleted. Malnutrition and starvation is a much bigger risk than losing a molting or freshly molted milli due to disturbance. The window for losing a molting milli is very small...
Definitely. I add fruit rinds about once a week. I add leaves about once a month, always adding it below the substrate and a layer on top. I add rotted wood every few months, as it becomes depleted.
I try to be very careful and gentle. Twice, I heard a little "crunch". :(
Both times it was a subadult that was up against the side of the container. I am hoping that I won't lose them, but I likely will.
---------- Post added 01-26-2014 at 10:57 AM ----------
It may help that I agitate my...
Thanks. Yes, it took about 45 minutes. The babies are between 1/16" - 1/2" and are pretty easy to count quickly. They are white and stand out with the black substrate as a background.
I rehoused my Bumblebee milli's today. It was time to increase the size of the enclosure and add rotted wood and leaves because of the amount of babies that I was seeing. I did a population count, out of curiosity. I started with 4 adults (2M, 2F) in November, 2012. I counted the following...
Thanks for posting this. The class looks awesome. I checked the website and can't find the cost for the class. Will you either PM me the details of the cost or post it here? Thanks.
I would recommend using a filet knife, the kind used to filet and skin fish. They are very thin and extremely sharp. That should minimize doing damage to the nest as you cut.
I have blue death-feigning beetles. I keep them on a bed of bran, which gives them a constant food source and is a dry substrate, similar to sand. My beetles get their moisture from the other foods that I give them - pieces of fruit (apple, orange, cantaloup rind, watermelon rind), and dry dog...
Hello there, why not take a few seconds to register on our forums and become part of the community? Just click here.
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.