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Yup, not sure if it's still around, but Mark shared pictures of it for a while and as you can see, it has gone through several successful molts.

If I recall correctly, there are no notable physical differences, but they are genetically distinct. I'd have to look at the paper again to be sure.

Yes, you have a true Javanimetrus cyaneus! (They were reclassified in 2020, so not Heterometrus anymore)

The hard yellow clump is likely infertile eggs, although I've never noticed the bioluminescence on them under blacklight. Can't say I've tried shining them, and only had infertiles happen a few times. Your H. franzwerneri seems likely gravid. You should see her bloat up over the next few months...

Morio worms could definitely be a problem post molt. They don't pass on an easy source of protein. Not a good idea.

From the species he mentioned I assumed OP was talking about African species. A location and some more context might be helpful here.

Lychas mucronatus only live about a year or two after maturing. Asian forest scorpions live a lot longer. So it was likely just old age in this case. Because they live fairly short, I don't think they would reproduce more than once. Asian forest scorpions however, can reproduce multiple times...

Made up common name, so only the seller will know what they are (or maybe not even). Seems likely to be some sort of Hadogenus species. No way to know without pictures.

Yes, just makes it easier to make sure it eats and monitor it closely.

Best to grow it out in something smaller to start with.

Pictures would be helpful. My guess is it's just some poop.

You don't want to use pure excavator clay, instead mix 30% clay with 70% sand and simply mix with water until you get a good consistency that can somewhat be molded. Also not too mushy. For most species, let it dry out completely before putting them in. Scorpio maurus likes a little moisture in...

Well, that can't really be quantified I think, so all you can go off is people's experiences. Also, outside of Buthidae and Hemiscorpidae, I can't think of any species that I expect to be much more painful than a bee sting, based on reports from other people as well as personal experience. I've...

No they're not. They shouldn't have super bright lights if that's what you mean but basking bulbs are not that bright. Perfectly fine to use. There's also the option of a ceramic heat emitter, basically a bulb that doesn't emit any light.

All you need is a small heat bulb to achieve these temperatures whenever you're able to do so. Make sure to keep on top of watering and restrict ventilation if necessary because it will cause it to dry out more quickly.

For an outback species like your Urodacus yaschenkoi, I would keep them quite warm, especially during the summer months. 25-35⁰C during the day. Maybe a bit cooler in winter. Fairly deep substrate that holds burrows (sand-clay mix). Hope you have better luck with your next one. Rainforest...

As I expected, he's growing so slowly because of the temperature. Keep it between 75 and 85⁰F and that makes a huge difference.

It's not adult yet. They aren't fast growers, but this is quite a while. What temperature are you keeping it at? Also the substrate in the 2nd picture looks nice and damp, but the first looks bone dry. Keep the substrate properly hydrated throughout by pouring some water in when it starts...

Yes, 70:30 sand:clay ratio. Temps as described above.

Does the wood have lots of cracks/holes they could hide in? If so, that's very likely. If they escaped, my guess is they climbed up the silicone seal in the edges and squeezed out. They only need a very small gap. If they escaped, I have low hope you'll find them. I hope they turn out to be...