Mites again
- Thread starter Draiman
- Start date
yep sure looks like it to me also and in a low moisture T bummerI can hear the groaning already: "Oh man, not again..."
Whatever. This is not a case of paranoia, as the pic shows. One of my OBTs has mites. What I'd like to ask is, are they parasitic (they sure look it to me)?
You need to wait for BillS dude!
Those COULD be mites . . .
Thats definately where you would find mites.
All the mites I ever seen that were a problem were brown, but that is with reptiles.
Now that being said, there are 3 white things, that look like what you got there, on one of my slings.
I could never hope to get a great pic like that tho, good job.
I dont know how youd even begin to get those off an OBT . . .
Good luck!
Beautiful spider and photo!
Those COULD be mites . . .
Thats definately where you would find mites.
All the mites I ever seen that were a problem were brown, but that is with reptiles.
Now that being said, there are 3 white things, that look like what you got there, on one of my slings.
I could never hope to get a great pic like that tho, good job.
I dont know how youd even begin to get those off an OBT . . .
Good luck!
Beautiful spider and photo!
They are indeed mites. If you save the photo onto your computer and zoom, you can see legs on the mites. I just spent the past hour trying to physically get them off the OBT - and of course I almost (but didn't!) got bitten. I'll take pics in a bit to see if the mites are gone. I can't tell with my naked eye.
I've also done the same with the L. violaceopes sling. I'm not keeping my hopes up though.
I've also done the same with the L. violaceopes sling. I'm not keeping my hopes up though.
So how are you trying to remove them?
I aint doubting theyre mites, just what kind . . .
Maybe I shoulda said those could be "parasitic" mites.
Most folks take every little crawlie they see to be a mite . . .
I used a cotton bud.
I'm going to say yes, they are mites. And probably parasitic mites.
The next step is determining how much of a threat they are. Like fleas on a dog - they can range from minor annoyance to full blown infestation. A few small mites like these won't bother your tarantula. But you want to take steps to keep the numbers down, and even better if you can eliminate them altogether.
There's a good chance they drop off the spider into the substrate to lay eggs, so periodically changing the substrate will help. (And don't dispose of the substrate by tossing it into a wastebasket next to your tarantula cages.) Keeping a dry container may help a little, but not much. The mites themselves will not be affected by the dryness, but there's a possibility that their eggs could be. However, the mites will choose the place with the right conditions to deposit their eggs, so one tiny crevice under the water dish might be enough. If the mites are from a dry climate, they will not need a moist climate to reproduce in.
Since I have not had any mite problems with any of my tarantulas, I have no experience in killing mites on tarantulas. But here are a few thoughts...
- Provide the healthiest conditions you can for your tarantula. A healty animal is more resistent to parasitism than a sick or weak animal is. That means that if your tarantula needs moisture - provide it. Providing bad conditions (such as too dry) on the basis that it will kill the mites is a bad idea - especially since the mites will survive anything that the tarantula survives, and will do so by sucking moisture from the tarantula.
- If feasible, keep the infected tarantula in as simple a set-up as possible. If it's small enough to keep in a deli cup, do so. This will make it easier to periodically move the tarantula to a fresh, clean container. By changing container and substrate frequently you may be able to cut off the reproductive cycle of the mites.
- If you can kill mites without endangering the tarantula, do so. A drop of fine vegetable oil on a soft/blunt stick might be helpful. If you can touch the mites with a tiny drop of non-toxic oil it can suffocate them. And even if you can't get enough on them to suffocate them you might be able to make them uncomfortable enough that they will detach and move to another location. If you can spot them while they are detached you might be able to simply knock them off.
- Watch for molting. When the tarantula first molts, remove the molt as quickly as possible, before the mites have a chance to transfer back to the tarantula.
- Keep infested tarantulas away from your other tarantulas. The further separated the better. Keep the shelves that your tarantula containers are on clean. Wipe them down fairly often to remove any mites that might be wandering in search of a new host. If you can keep open space between your containers, do so.
- I have not used predatory mites as a means of controlling parasitic mites - but the concept sounds good. Certainly worth trying. If you have frequent mite problems, you could even consider maintaining a culture of predatory mites on a permanent basis.
- Don't panic at the site of every tiny "bug" - or even at the sight of every mite. There are lots of other tiny arthropods that live in the soil, from Collembola to detritus mites. These will not hurt your tarantula. They could even do some good.
The next step is determining how much of a threat they are. Like fleas on a dog - they can range from minor annoyance to full blown infestation. A few small mites like these won't bother your tarantula. But you want to take steps to keep the numbers down, and even better if you can eliminate them altogether.
There's a good chance they drop off the spider into the substrate to lay eggs, so periodically changing the substrate will help. (And don't dispose of the substrate by tossing it into a wastebasket next to your tarantula cages.) Keeping a dry container may help a little, but not much. The mites themselves will not be affected by the dryness, but there's a possibility that their eggs could be. However, the mites will choose the place with the right conditions to deposit their eggs, so one tiny crevice under the water dish might be enough. If the mites are from a dry climate, they will not need a moist climate to reproduce in.
Since I have not had any mite problems with any of my tarantulas, I have no experience in killing mites on tarantulas. But here are a few thoughts...
- Provide the healthiest conditions you can for your tarantula. A healty animal is more resistent to parasitism than a sick or weak animal is. That means that if your tarantula needs moisture - provide it. Providing bad conditions (such as too dry) on the basis that it will kill the mites is a bad idea - especially since the mites will survive anything that the tarantula survives, and will do so by sucking moisture from the tarantula.
- If feasible, keep the infected tarantula in as simple a set-up as possible. If it's small enough to keep in a deli cup, do so. This will make it easier to periodically move the tarantula to a fresh, clean container. By changing container and substrate frequently you may be able to cut off the reproductive cycle of the mites.
- If you can kill mites without endangering the tarantula, do so. A drop of fine vegetable oil on a soft/blunt stick might be helpful. If you can touch the mites with a tiny drop of non-toxic oil it can suffocate them. And even if you can't get enough on them to suffocate them you might be able to make them uncomfortable enough that they will detach and move to another location. If you can spot them while they are detached you might be able to simply knock them off.
- Watch for molting. When the tarantula first molts, remove the molt as quickly as possible, before the mites have a chance to transfer back to the tarantula.
- Keep infested tarantulas away from your other tarantulas. The further separated the better. Keep the shelves that your tarantula containers are on clean. Wipe them down fairly often to remove any mites that might be wandering in search of a new host. If you can keep open space between your containers, do so.
- I have not used predatory mites as a means of controlling parasitic mites - but the concept sounds good. Certainly worth trying. If you have frequent mite problems, you could even consider maintaining a culture of predatory mites on a permanent basis.
- Don't panic at the site of every tiny "bug" - or even at the sight of every mite. There are lots of other tiny arthropods that live in the soil, from Collembola to detritus mites. These will not hurt your tarantula. They could even do some good.
Thanks for the very comprehensive reply. 
It seems there are very few mites present, probably not more than what is visible in the pic I posted. Hopefully I got them all. Predatory mites are a very attractive option but I have no idea how to obtain any. The spider appears to be in premolt so I'll be keeping a close eye. Will paper towels suffice as substrate?
It seems there are very few mites present, probably not more than what is visible in the pic I posted. Hopefully I got them all. Predatory mites are a very attractive option but I have no idea how to obtain any. The spider appears to be in premolt so I'll be keeping a close eye. Will paper towels suffice as substrate?I've never had mite problems before, so I'm not sure the exact species of predatory mite you would want, but I did find this page: http://www.planetnatural.com/site/predatory-mites.htmlThanks for the very comprehensive reply.
I read through the page and noticed this:
Produced commercially for years, Predatory Mites (Phytoseiulus persimilis) are an effective biological control for use against the two spotted spider mite. These natural enemies do not bite people, feed on other insects or injure plants. Once released, they will immediately begin searching for food on the underside of leaves. Control of a light infestation should occur in two to three weeks. On heavier infestations a second release may be required.
I also found info on this website: http://www.biconet.com/biocontrol/persimilis.html
Two-spotted spider mites and many others are the target food of P. persimilis, which will consume 5-10 pest adults or up to 20 pest eggs/day. When released during a low infestation, spider mites can be controlled within 2-3 weeks. P. persimilis need a relative humidity greater than 60% in order to survive, especially in the egg stage. Once the adults' food supply dwindles, P. persimilis die. If reinfestation occurs, P. persimilis must be reintroduced, preferably every 3-5 weeks, or in combination with either G. occidentalis or N. californicus.
Like I said, I'm not sure if this is what you would want to get, but it sounds like a pretty good deal to me. I'd ask around a little more before getting any, for sure, and then see if you can find a way to get, like... 2 mites
From the sounds of it, that's all you would need.EDIT:
Oh! I just found this site- at the bottom of the page is a group of links to information pages on several different species of predatory mites. How marvelous!
http://www.nysaes.cornell.edu/ent/biocontrol/predators/mitintro.html
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- Sep 22, 2008
- Messages
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well if you are to use a predatory mite use Hyaposis miles they eat everything from springtails to grain mites....are pretty easy o produce small colonies of, and die off once their finished cleaning up. oh also they eat the eggs laid by grain mites as well
There is nobody anywhere near me who can provide me with some. Is it illegal to ship these mites out of the US? I desperately need some.
Btw - thanks for the reply Zayshah.
- Joined
- Dec 8, 2003
- Messages
- 1,747
Unfortunately most of my knowledge on predatory mites is in conjunction with fields, orchards, and green houses, that being said many predatory mites have a wide range of prey and some will use other non-specific mite, aphids, fungus gnats, ect as prey items. Unfortunately little has been specifically studied on their effect on those types of mites that specifically attack mygales and other pet type arthopods. So that said I'll give you info on several species I have compiled data on (from personal use and from other sources). Sorry if this is too long but I hope it provides you with options to experiment with. In many cases I have used several of these species together with very good effect on crops, fruit trees, and in my greenhouse. I have seen most of them in my enclosures many times (would be hard to keep them out as they get on my clothes while I tend my plants) and have never seen negative effects on my T's, scorps, or pedes. I will say I have never had bad mites in/on my collection during this time. Most of these are available through nursery/ greenhouse retailers. There are basically 3 types of mites.
Type 1 mites: These mites are probably the least usefull in this case, but I'll include them for your use in other situations. These are specialists mites feeding and surviving only on spider mites belonging to the Tetranychidae family. This is the family to which the well-known two-spotted mite, Tetranychus urticae, belongs. Species belonging to this type have strong aggregation behaviors, commonly remaining among pest groupings for extended periods and can respond quickly to rising numbers. Type I mites can also die out quickly when prey isn’t available because they lack the ability to adapt to other food sources such as pollen and other mites. A classic example of a Type I mite is Phytoseiulus persimilis.
Type 2 mites: These are still selective, but easily adapt to other species of pests mites and can also feed on pollen. For general mite control, management, and prevention, due to this adaptability, Type II mites are often a desirable choice. Examples of Type II mites include Neoseiulus californicus, N. cucumeris (which feeds primarily on thrips) and N. fallacis, and
Galendromus occidentalis.
Type 3: These mites are gereralists, extremely opportunistic. Type 3 mites will feed on other non-mite prey, plus pollen, honeydew, and plant juices if need be. Amblyseius swirskii belong to this category. Neoseiulus californicus, N. cucumeris, and N. fallacis are hybrid Type II/Type III mite because of their ability to cross lines in the name of adaptation (being both selective and extremely opportunistic), as are most Phytoseiids.
Phytoseiulus persimilis is the most commonly used predatory mite in greenhouses.The globose, light- to deep-red females of P. macropilis lay oval orange eggs that hatch into six-legged larvae. Both larvae and nymphs have a similar white to light orange color. Males are identical to females in shape and color but are smaller. These mites have a strong preference for immature spider mites over adults. Each predator consumes four to six spider mite eggs or larvae daily during its development and an average of eight eggs per day as an adult. P. macropilis has a short life cycle in comparison to many spider mite species, allowing it to build up quickly to suppress pest populations. In the absence of spider mites they will prey on their own immatures. P. macropilis occurs naturally in Florida. Probably not effective for our purposes.
Typhlodromus occidentalis (Nesbitt) (Acarihytoseiidae) is a predatory mite that attacks spider mites, particularly two-spotted mite (Tetranychus urticae). T. occidentalis is well adapted to hot, dry climates and is tolerant of many organophospate insecticides. Probably not effective for our purposes.
Zetzellia mali (Ewing)ZM can also complement biological control by phytoseiids by feeding on stationary forms of pest mites (phytoseiids prefer motile forms), such as overwintering eggs and quiescent immature mites. (Acari:Stigmaeidae). Not sure but may work on eggs for our purposes.
Galendromus occidentalis western predatory mites. The preferred foods of western predatory mites are mites of all stages, including eggs, but they also feed on pollen and other food. The western predatory mite is commercially available and is commonly released against Tetranychus spp. spider mites such as the Pacific spider mite and the two-spotted spider mite. Effective control of spider mite pests has been documented in various many crops and ornamentals. The western predatory mite tolerates hot climates as long as the relative humidity is above about 50 percent. These could possibly work for our needs.
Neoseiulus californicus, N. cucumeris, and N. fallacis, (Acari: Phytoseiidae): These are oblong, tiny, mobile, predatory mite that feeds on a variety of prey. These would probably be very effective on the types of mites we may find in our collections.
Amblyseius swirskii: Amblyseius swirskii is found in the wild in the eastern Mediterranean region, i.e. Israel, Italy, Cyprus and Egypt. The predatory mite is found there in crops like apples, vegetables and cotton. In Israel, A. swirskii is a small predatory mite which feeds on many types of small arthropod prey and pollen. I think these too would work well against the mites that could affect our collections.
Typhlodromus pyri (Scheuten)They can survive and reproduce on a diet of pollen, fungi, and plant fluids during the early season when animal prey are absent. Adults are pear-shaped, minute (slightly smaller than an ERM adult), and generally a creamy white color, but because their guts take on color from prey, they may appear red or brown. TP move actively over plant surfaces in search of prey.TP females live approximately 20 days and lay an average of 20-30 eggs. A possible good candidate.
Amblyseius fallacis: AF live nearly as long as Typhlodromus pyri, but lay twice as many eggs, which are indistinguishable from those of TP. Immatures develop in one-third of the time required by TP. AF populations can increase rapidly and may overtake and deplete prey populations. In such cases it readily migrates to sites with more prey. It completes 4-6 generations per year in New York.In general, an "effective" predator (1) prefers to feed on the pest species, (2) actively searches for its preferred prey, (3) has the reproductive potential to increase its numbers more quickly than its prey, and (4) has the ability to persist when prey numbers are low. A predator's effectiveness is determined by which traits it exhibits either alone or in combination with another species. Another good candidate.
Both phytoseiid species prefer to feed on tetranychid mites and actively search for them but can adapt to other prey. Short-term, AF can better control a large pest mite population than TP. It is voracious and it's population increases quickly in relation to its prey. When the pest mite population is high, AF numbers can overtake the pest population. If it reduces its prey to very low numbers, AF will leave in search of more prey. TP does not reproduce as quickly as AF and cannot overtake and control an expanding pest mite population, but it can thrive at low prey density. It remains in trees, surviving on a variety of alternative foods. Once the pest mite population has been reduced to a low density, TP will prevent its buildup unless disrupted by the use of a pesticide to which it is susceptible. A mixed population of AF and TP is desirable, but alone TP provides more consistent pest mite control for a longer time.
possible suppliers could help so here are some USA and Canadian suppliers that carry various predatory mites.
Associates Insectary
P.O. Box 969
Santa Paula, CA 93061-0969
Tel: (805) 933-1301
Fax: (805) 933-1304
E-mail: info@associatesinsectary.com
Web: www.associatesinsectary.com
Biotactics (Benemite)
20780 Warren Road
Perris, CA 92570
Tel: (909) 943-2819
E-mail: sales@benemite.com
Web: www.benemite.com
Bio Ag Services
4218 W Muscat
Fresno, CA 93706
Tel: (559) 268-2835
E-mail: bioag@theworks.com
Biobest
2020 Mersea Road #3 RR4
Leamington, Canada, 0N N8H 3V7
Tel: (519) 322-2178
E-mail: biobest@on.aibn.com
Web: www.biobest.be
Biofac, Inc.
P.O. Box 87
Mathis, TX 78368
Tel: (800) 233-4914
Buena Biosystems
P.O. Box 4008
Ventura, CA 93007-7760
Tel: (805) 525-2525
Fax: (805) 525-6058
E-mail: bugdude@msn.com
Central Coast Insectary
313 Hames Road
Watsonville, CA 95076
Tel: (408) 726-1853
Ecosolutions, Inc.
2948 Landmark Way
Palm Harbor, FL 34684
Tel/Fax: (727) 787-3669
E-mail: ecosolutions@mindspring.com
The Green Spot, Ltd.
93 Priest Road
Nottingham, NH 03290-6204
Tel: (603) 942-8925
E-mail: info@greenmethods.com
Web: www.greenmethods.com
Harmony Farm Supply
P.O. Box 460
Graton, CA 95444
Tel: (707) 823-9125
E-mail: info@harmonyfarm.com
Hydro-Gardens, Inc.
P. O. Box 9707
Colorado Springs, CO 80932
Tel: (800) 634-6362
IPM Laboratories, Inc.
980 Main Street
Locke, NY 13092-0300
Tel: (315) 497-2063
Fax: (315) 497-3129
E-mail: ipmlabs@baldcom.net
Web: www.ipmlabs.com
Koppert Biological Systems
28465 Beverly Road
Romulus, MI 48174
E-mail: asktheexpert@koppertonline.com
Web: www.koppertonline.com
Ladybug Sales
P.O. Box 903
Gridley, CA 95948
Tel: (916) 868-1627
M & R Durango, Inc.
6565 Highway 172
Ignacio, CO 81137
Tel: (800) 526-4075 or (970) 259-3521
Fax: (970) 259-3857
E-mail: mrdrango@frontier.net
Web: www.goodbug.com
Natural Insect Control
R.R. # 2 Stevensville
Ontario, Canada, L0S 1S0
Tel: (905) 382-2904
Fax: (905) 382-4418
E-mail: nic@niagara.com
Web: www.natural-insect-control.com
Natural Pest Controls
8864 Little Creek Drive
Orangeville, CA 95662
Tel: (916) 726-0855 or (916) 923-3353
Fax: (916) 923-1278
Necessary Trading Co.
P.O. Box 603
New Castle, VA 24127
Tel: (703) 864-5103
New Earth, Inc.
4422 E Highway 44
Shepardsville, KY 40165
Tel: (502) 543-5933
Pacific Tree Farms
4301 Lynwood Drive
Chula Vista, CA 92010
Tel: (619) 422-2400
Peaceful Valley Farm Supply
P.O. Box 2209
Grass Valley, CA 95945
Tel: (888) 784-1722 or (530) 272-4769
Web: www.groworganic.com
Plant Sciences, Inc. / Koppert
342 Green Valley Road
Watsonville, CA 95076
Tel: (831) 728-7771
E-mail: tkueneman@plantsciences.com
PRAXIS
P.O. Box 360
2723 116th Ave.
Allegan, MI 49010
Tel: (269) 673-2793
Sierra Ag
2749 E Malaga
Fresno, CA 93725
Tel: (209) 233-0585
Sterling Insectary
P.O. Box 1987
Delano, CA 93216
Tel: (661) 725-1832
E-mail: matt@sterlingnursery.com
Worm's Way, Inc.
7850 North State Road 37
Bloomington, IN 47404
Tel: (800) 274-9676 or (812) 876-6450
Fax: (800) 316-1264
E-mail: chrisct@wormsway.com
Web: www.wormsway.com
Type 1 mites: These mites are probably the least usefull in this case, but I'll include them for your use in other situations. These are specialists mites feeding and surviving only on spider mites belonging to the Tetranychidae family. This is the family to which the well-known two-spotted mite, Tetranychus urticae, belongs. Species belonging to this type have strong aggregation behaviors, commonly remaining among pest groupings for extended periods and can respond quickly to rising numbers. Type I mites can also die out quickly when prey isn’t available because they lack the ability to adapt to other food sources such as pollen and other mites. A classic example of a Type I mite is Phytoseiulus persimilis.
Type 2 mites: These are still selective, but easily adapt to other species of pests mites and can also feed on pollen. For general mite control, management, and prevention, due to this adaptability, Type II mites are often a desirable choice. Examples of Type II mites include Neoseiulus californicus, N. cucumeris (which feeds primarily on thrips) and N. fallacis, and
Galendromus occidentalis.
Type 3: These mites are gereralists, extremely opportunistic. Type 3 mites will feed on other non-mite prey, plus pollen, honeydew, and plant juices if need be. Amblyseius swirskii belong to this category. Neoseiulus californicus, N. cucumeris, and N. fallacis are hybrid Type II/Type III mite because of their ability to cross lines in the name of adaptation (being both selective and extremely opportunistic), as are most Phytoseiids.
Phytoseiulus persimilis is the most commonly used predatory mite in greenhouses.The globose, light- to deep-red females of P. macropilis lay oval orange eggs that hatch into six-legged larvae. Both larvae and nymphs have a similar white to light orange color. Males are identical to females in shape and color but are smaller. These mites have a strong preference for immature spider mites over adults. Each predator consumes four to six spider mite eggs or larvae daily during its development and an average of eight eggs per day as an adult. P. macropilis has a short life cycle in comparison to many spider mite species, allowing it to build up quickly to suppress pest populations. In the absence of spider mites they will prey on their own immatures. P. macropilis occurs naturally in Florida. Probably not effective for our purposes.
Typhlodromus occidentalis (Nesbitt) (Acari
hytoseiidae) is a predatory mite that attacks spider mites, particularly two-spotted mite (Tetranychus urticae). T. occidentalis is well adapted to hot, dry climates and is tolerant of many organophospate insecticides. Probably not effective for our purposes.Zetzellia mali (Ewing)ZM can also complement biological control by phytoseiids by feeding on stationary forms of pest mites (phytoseiids prefer motile forms), such as overwintering eggs and quiescent immature mites. (Acari:Stigmaeidae). Not sure but may work on eggs for our purposes.
Galendromus occidentalis western predatory mites. The preferred foods of western predatory mites are mites of all stages, including eggs, but they also feed on pollen and other food. The western predatory mite is commercially available and is commonly released against Tetranychus spp. spider mites such as the Pacific spider mite and the two-spotted spider mite. Effective control of spider mite pests has been documented in various many crops and ornamentals. The western predatory mite tolerates hot climates as long as the relative humidity is above about 50 percent. These could possibly work for our needs.
Neoseiulus californicus, N. cucumeris, and N. fallacis, (Acari: Phytoseiidae): These are oblong, tiny, mobile, predatory mite that feeds on a variety of prey. These would probably be very effective on the types of mites we may find in our collections.
Amblyseius swirskii: Amblyseius swirskii is found in the wild in the eastern Mediterranean region, i.e. Israel, Italy, Cyprus and Egypt. The predatory mite is found there in crops like apples, vegetables and cotton. In Israel, A. swirskii is a small predatory mite which feeds on many types of small arthropod prey and pollen. I think these too would work well against the mites that could affect our collections.
Typhlodromus pyri (Scheuten)They can survive and reproduce on a diet of pollen, fungi, and plant fluids during the early season when animal prey are absent. Adults are pear-shaped, minute (slightly smaller than an ERM adult), and generally a creamy white color, but because their guts take on color from prey, they may appear red or brown. TP move actively over plant surfaces in search of prey.TP females live approximately 20 days and lay an average of 20-30 eggs. A possible good candidate.
Amblyseius fallacis: AF live nearly as long as Typhlodromus pyri, but lay twice as many eggs, which are indistinguishable from those of TP. Immatures develop in one-third of the time required by TP. AF populations can increase rapidly and may overtake and deplete prey populations. In such cases it readily migrates to sites with more prey. It completes 4-6 generations per year in New York.In general, an "effective" predator (1) prefers to feed on the pest species, (2) actively searches for its preferred prey, (3) has the reproductive potential to increase its numbers more quickly than its prey, and (4) has the ability to persist when prey numbers are low. A predator's effectiveness is determined by which traits it exhibits either alone or in combination with another species. Another good candidate.
Both phytoseiid species prefer to feed on tetranychid mites and actively search for them but can adapt to other prey. Short-term, AF can better control a large pest mite population than TP. It is voracious and it's population increases quickly in relation to its prey. When the pest mite population is high, AF numbers can overtake the pest population. If it reduces its prey to very low numbers, AF will leave in search of more prey. TP does not reproduce as quickly as AF and cannot overtake and control an expanding pest mite population, but it can thrive at low prey density. It remains in trees, surviving on a variety of alternative foods. Once the pest mite population has been reduced to a low density, TP will prevent its buildup unless disrupted by the use of a pesticide to which it is susceptible. A mixed population of AF and TP is desirable, but alone TP provides more consistent pest mite control for a longer time.
possible suppliers could help so here are some USA and Canadian suppliers that carry various predatory mites.
Associates Insectary
P.O. Box 969
Santa Paula, CA 93061-0969
Tel: (805) 933-1301
Fax: (805) 933-1304
E-mail: info@associatesinsectary.com
Web: www.associatesinsectary.com
Biotactics (Benemite)
20780 Warren Road
Perris, CA 92570
Tel: (909) 943-2819
E-mail: sales@benemite.com
Web: www.benemite.com
Bio Ag Services
4218 W Muscat
Fresno, CA 93706
Tel: (559) 268-2835
E-mail: bioag@theworks.com
Biobest
2020 Mersea Road #3 RR4
Leamington, Canada, 0N N8H 3V7
Tel: (519) 322-2178
E-mail: biobest@on.aibn.com
Web: www.biobest.be
Biofac, Inc.
P.O. Box 87
Mathis, TX 78368
Tel: (800) 233-4914
Buena Biosystems
P.O. Box 4008
Ventura, CA 93007-7760
Tel: (805) 525-2525
Fax: (805) 525-6058
E-mail: bugdude@msn.com
Central Coast Insectary
313 Hames Road
Watsonville, CA 95076
Tel: (408) 726-1853
Ecosolutions, Inc.
2948 Landmark Way
Palm Harbor, FL 34684
Tel/Fax: (727) 787-3669
E-mail: ecosolutions@mindspring.com
The Green Spot, Ltd.
93 Priest Road
Nottingham, NH 03290-6204
Tel: (603) 942-8925
E-mail: info@greenmethods.com
Web: www.greenmethods.com
Harmony Farm Supply
P.O. Box 460
Graton, CA 95444
Tel: (707) 823-9125
E-mail: info@harmonyfarm.com
Hydro-Gardens, Inc.
P. O. Box 9707
Colorado Springs, CO 80932
Tel: (800) 634-6362
IPM Laboratories, Inc.
980 Main Street
Locke, NY 13092-0300
Tel: (315) 497-2063
Fax: (315) 497-3129
E-mail: ipmlabs@baldcom.net
Web: www.ipmlabs.com
Koppert Biological Systems
28465 Beverly Road
Romulus, MI 48174
E-mail: asktheexpert@koppertonline.com
Web: www.koppertonline.com
Ladybug Sales
P.O. Box 903
Gridley, CA 95948
Tel: (916) 868-1627
M & R Durango, Inc.
6565 Highway 172
Ignacio, CO 81137
Tel: (800) 526-4075 or (970) 259-3521
Fax: (970) 259-3857
E-mail: mrdrango@frontier.net
Web: www.goodbug.com
Natural Insect Control
R.R. # 2 Stevensville
Ontario, Canada, L0S 1S0
Tel: (905) 382-2904
Fax: (905) 382-4418
E-mail: nic@niagara.com
Web: www.natural-insect-control.com
Natural Pest Controls
8864 Little Creek Drive
Orangeville, CA 95662
Tel: (916) 726-0855 or (916) 923-3353
Fax: (916) 923-1278
Necessary Trading Co.
P.O. Box 603
New Castle, VA 24127
Tel: (703) 864-5103
New Earth, Inc.
4422 E Highway 44
Shepardsville, KY 40165
Tel: (502) 543-5933
Pacific Tree Farms
4301 Lynwood Drive
Chula Vista, CA 92010
Tel: (619) 422-2400
Peaceful Valley Farm Supply
P.O. Box 2209
Grass Valley, CA 95945
Tel: (888) 784-1722 or (530) 272-4769
Web: www.groworganic.com
Plant Sciences, Inc. / Koppert
342 Green Valley Road
Watsonville, CA 95076
Tel: (831) 728-7771
E-mail: tkueneman@plantsciences.com
PRAXIS
P.O. Box 360
2723 116th Ave.
Allegan, MI 49010
Tel: (269) 673-2793
Sierra Ag
2749 E Malaga
Fresno, CA 93725
Tel: (209) 233-0585
Sterling Insectary
P.O. Box 1987
Delano, CA 93216
Tel: (661) 725-1832
E-mail: matt@sterlingnursery.com
Worm's Way, Inc.
7850 North State Road 37
Bloomington, IN 47404
Tel: (800) 274-9676 or (812) 876-6450
Fax: (800) 316-1264
E-mail: chrisct@wormsway.com
Web: www.wormsway.com
Yes, very informative!
No offence Bills, I know you know your stuff, but I think that Revs was the best "article" on mites Ive seen.
Im still watching those ones on my avic, they just chill, the T seems as good as the others . . .
So I just wait . . .
No offence Bills, I know you know your stuff, but I think that Revs was the best "article" on mites Ive seen.
Im still watching those ones on my avic, they just chill, the T seems as good as the others . . .
So I just wait . . .
I believe if they don't move much they're more likely to be parasitic mites. I think you have cause for concern.
- Joined
- May 14, 2008
- Messages
- 1,145
Those mites are so tiny and that zoom is so in there that
I'm sure many keepers' tarantulas have these and they go unnoticed......
I'm sure many keepers' tarantulas have these and they go unnoticed......
- Joined
- Jul 20, 2007
- Messages
- 5,351
Yeah but mites in that quantity are really nothing to worry about, in my opinion.